South Face Variation: La Porte de l'Enfer
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BETA PHOTO: La Porte de l'Enfer 5.10X: Variation to South Face...
Follow the the South Face
pitches until you reach the pitch 7 belay. On pitch 7, traverse right of the South Face
route for 25 feet along a 3 feet wide ledge (top of a deep flake system) until you reach a right-facing dihedral full of several small rusty fixed wires where other climbers have retreated. Follow the fixed wires straight up in the shallow, right-facing dihedral for 15 feet, then launch straight up for 150 feet of committed nightmare climbing. Survive it with psychological gear with most of it unable to sustain a rest. After continuing straight up from the dihedral system, face climb on run out terrain and enter the final crux on a tweaker, layback arete reaching to sloping holds just below the belay ledge of pitch 8 where the climb rejoins the South Face
route. This was an accidental onsight. The crux popped ligaments in three fingers while wearing a full pack and nearly caused a 180 foot + fall onto a ledge, hence the name.
Follow the red line in the attached route photo.
Small wires/brass RPs, medium to small TCUs, and lots of long runners.
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