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Petit Grepon
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Neathawk-Collett T 
South Face T 
South Face Variation: La Porte de l'Enfer T 
Southwest Corner T 

South Face Variation: La Porte de l'Enfer 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b X

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Christopher D. Jones, Keith Brown, 2013
New Route: Yes
Season: Same as South Face
Page Views: 558
Submitted By: Chris Jones on Jun 4, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: La Porte de l'Enfer 5.10X: Variation to South Face...

Description 

Follow the the South Face pitches until you reach the pitch 7 belay. On pitch 7, traverse right of the South Face route for 25 feet along a 3 feet wide ledge (top of a deep flake system) until you reach a right-facing dihedral full of several small rusty fixed wires where other climbers have retreated. Follow the fixed wires straight up in the shallow, right-facing dihedral for 15 feet, then launch straight up for 150 feet of committed nightmare climbing. Survive it with psychological gear with most of it unable to sustain a rest. After continuing straight up from the dihedral system, face climb on run out terrain and enter the final crux on a tweaker, layback arete reaching to sloping holds just below the belay ledge of pitch 8 where the climb rejoins the South Face route. This was an accidental onsight. The crux popped ligaments in three fingers while wearing a full pack and nearly caused a 180 foot + fall onto a ledge, hence the name.

Location 

Follow the red line in the attached route photo.

Protection 

Small wires/brass RPs, medium to small TCUs, and lots of long runners.


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