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Petit Grepon
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Neathawk-Collett T 
South Face T 
South Face Variation: La Porte de l'Enfer T 
Southwest Corner T 

South Face Variation: La Porte de l'Enfer 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b X

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 900'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Christopher D. Jones, Keith Brown, 2013
New Route: Yes
Season: Same as South Face
Page Views: 1,189
Submitted By: Chris Jones on Jun 4, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: La Porte de l'Enfer 5.10X: Variation to South Face...


Follow the the South Face pitches until you reach the pitch 7 belay. On pitch 7, traverse right of the South Face route for 25 feet along a 3 feet wide ledge (top of a deep flake system) until you reach a right-facing dihedral full of several small rusty fixed wires where other climbers have retreated. Follow the fixed wires straight up in the shallow, right-facing dihedral for 15 feet, then launch straight up for 150 feet of committed nightmare climbing. Survive it with psychological gear with most of it unable to sustain a rest. After continuing straight up from the dihedral system, face climb on run out terrain and enter the final crux on a tweaker, layback arete reaching to sloping holds just below the belay ledge of pitch 8 where the climb rejoins the South Face route. This was an accidental onsight. The crux popped ligaments in three fingers while wearing a full pack and nearly caused a 180 foot + fall onto a ledge, hence the name.


Follow the red line in the attached route photo.


Small wires/brass RPs, medium to small TCUs, and lots of long runners.

Comments on South Face Variation: La Porte de l'Enfer Add Comment
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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 14, 2015

Pretty sure I got off route on the Petit too. Don't think it was worthy of a whole new route though.
By Chris Jones
Jul 15, 2015

Post some photos, and I'll let you know if we did the same variation. My partner has it on his helmet cam. I will try to get this posted later. If this was your comment, I question whether we did the same pitch. If 5.10 sport is your limit, I am certain.
By Andrew G
Jul 16, 2015

Pretty sure he's just calling you out for a superfluous minor variation of a very popular route. Chances are, you are not the first to wander off route through this particular section.
By Chris Jones
Aug 15, 2015

Call me out when you do it.

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