Southwest Face Right
|1,057 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 450 feet, Grade III|
|Consensus: ||5.9 [details]|
|FA: ||Joe Kelsey and Dick Williams 1972|
|Submitted By: ||Lynn S on Aug 17, 2008|
Interesting 4 or 5 pitch line left of the more popular South Buttress line.
P1 5.7, easy R facing corner to the top of a flake, very featured rock and takes great pro.
P2 5.8, thin crack leads to some awkward moves and then over some stacked blocks to a comfortable belay. TCU's are good for the first 20+ feet. Best pitch on the route in my opinion.
P3 5.7, left trending corner system obvious from below. Semi-groveling, semi-flared system. Actually easier than it appears. You can protect it with small to medium cams. I carried and 2 and 3 camalot but never place either. Long pitch of about 190 feet to alcove below small triangular roof.
P4 5.9, Crux pitch, hardest moves right off the belay to a fun move around the roof above, huge hold for you left hand. Continue up to a big ledge and belay. From here you can continue up through a steep slot or bail to the right
You can move right about 100 feet to the rap anchors at the top of the S. Buttress route. We did this as the slot looked unpleasant and another climber said there was a scary, loose block in the slot.
Walk left from the south shoulder and scramble across to a ledge below the R facing corner. Since you rap right back to this ledge you can leave your shoes, etc. on the ledge.
TCU's to #3 camalot should suffice. Nuts come in handy also.
|Comments on Southwest Face Right
Jul 13, 2009
I climbed this such a different way it's worth mentioning:
Three pitches from the ledge got me to a belay on a horn right next to the S buttress topout:
1) Traverse on a ledge, up the easy right-facing flake, and up a thin seam to another right-facing corner/flake. Belay at rap slings on top of the flake. 55m, 5.9
2) Climb easy ground past grassy ledges to a large ledge below a left-facing, arching crack. 40m, 5.4
3) Above the belay, climb a left-trending, left-facing flake to a stance. Then climb up an aesthetic, steep right-facing flake/corner using jams or liebacks to a nice belay ledge. 55m, 5.9
The third pitch was quite a rope-stretcher with a 60m rope -- I'd suggest a 70 for this variation.
Sep 12, 2012
That's exactly what we did. The route description didn't make sense 1/2 of the time. And yes, a 70m worked perfectly.