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 ADVANCED
South Formation
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cross Stitch T 
Dreaming in Color T 
Electric Sky S 
Granite Beach S 
Granite Beach Headwall S 
Hibernation S 
Lima Bean T,S 
Payback S 
Southwest Direct S 
Stonebridge T 
True Grit S 
Unsorted Routes:

Southwest Direct 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: FFA - Dan Levison & Paul Kunasz
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 212
Submitted By: Dan Levison on May 15, 2005

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P1 & P2 of SW Direct

Description 

Southwest Direct is the bolted line 50 left of Lima Bean.It ascends the southwest face in two direct pitches. High on the wall, at the juncture of the west and southwest faces is a distinct prow with a finger crack leading to its right side - Southwest Direct's second pitch is the clean face just left of the crack.

P1 --11a, 80 feet, serious (due to loose rock at start), 8 bolts, 2-bolt Fixe ring-anchor -- Solo up 30 feet of broken, 5th-class rock to reach the first bolt. After the 1st bolt, the rock and climbing become fantastic. Climb the corner above - at the end of the pitch, carefully move over a semi-detached block to a 2-bolt anchor.

P2 - 12a, 50 feet, 3 bolts, 2-bolt Fixe ring-anchor. Climb straight up the gorgeous face directly above the belay. Clipping the first bolt is somewhat serious (or stick clip). Climb and edge your way up the face, then power onto the ramp; clip the chains and belay; or continue on past a single bolt above the ramp and up to a two-bolt ring anchor, which is 15 feet above the last bolt. Rap the route or walk off the North side.

Protection 

P1 - 8 bolts and anchors; P2 -- 3 bolts and anchors


Photos of Southwest Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Southwest face of south formation ... photo by Bob...
BETA PHOTO: Southwest face of south formation ... photo by Bob...

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By John Dubya
Jun 21, 2013

The first pitch felt harder than .11a to me. Also, the bolting is sub-par in my opinion with the biggest fall factors right at each of the cruxes.