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Southwest Defile Route
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British C2
Avg: 2.4 from 14
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Routes in Grand View Spire
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Relics T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2 |
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Southwest Defile Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | John Auld, John Kuglin, Gary Ziegley, 1961. |
| Page Views: | 3,773 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Mottinger on Nov 9, 2001 |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is an adventurous and interesting route that has seen very few ascents -- the original summit register is still there after 40 years. Only a handful of ascents had been made until the '90s, and now it seems only about 20-30 (at least by who signed the register). Anyway, if you do plan on climbing this route, a new register is in order, since the old one has nearly fallen apart.
Find the route per the description on the rock page. This route can be climbed in 5 pitches, but the last two-three are easy to get to and of better quality. Fix a rope on two trees near the edge of the rim, just above the notch to the spire below. A 50m rope will reach all the way to the notch bottom.
P1: Start on the left side of the notch up an easy ramp to a small crack. Look for two old bolts (relics of the FA I'm guessing) and a bolt with a missing hanger. This section can be easily aided or free climbed at 5.9, but you wouldn't want to fall on these bolts--they've really seen their better days. Move up to the top of a small block under a large, R-facing dihedral. Aid up this thin crack using the micro cams, TCUs, and small stoppers (down to #2). This goes clean thanks to the old pin scars, but the rock is a little soft. After aiding up the corner, it is not too bad to free-climb the rest of the pitch at about 5.8, but it is a little spicy since the rock is a little crumbly in spots. Belay on top of a pedestal where there are two drilled angles for protection.
P2: Move up the ramp to a large flake using some large stoppers and med-lrg Friends for pro. Clip an old drilled angle, then move around the corner to the right. Belay at the base of a short offwidth crack.
P3: Tackle the nice OW (5.8) and use a large piece like a #5 Camalot or similar. If you don't have one, a medium stopper and a small Alien can be used in a thin seam on the left. Top out and enjoy the view!
Descent: There are two possibilities for making it back to the canyon rim. 1: Rap back to the notch with TWO 50m ropes, then jug back up your fixed line 150ft. The anchor on top is two drilled angles and some old webbing--bring a knife and a new piece of cord with you to replace some old stuff and inspire a little more confidence. 2: From the start of the route, attach your fixed line from the canyon rim to yourself and bring it up to the summit. A tyrolian can be set up here with this line and your additional lead line. We did not do this method, but on second thought, it seems like more fun and less work than bringing a 3rd rope and jugging back up 150ft. One other thing about the tyrolean logistics is the 50m fixed line will not reach the start of the route, so you'll have to attach it on the lead line and pull it up when you're about 1/2 way up the pitch.
Find the route per the description on the rock page. This route can be climbed in 5 pitches, but the last two-three are easy to get to and of better quality. Fix a rope on two trees near the edge of the rim, just above the notch to the spire below. A 50m rope will reach all the way to the notch bottom.
P1: Start on the left side of the notch up an easy ramp to a small crack. Look for two old bolts (relics of the FA I'm guessing) and a bolt with a missing hanger. This section can be easily aided or free climbed at 5.9, but you wouldn't want to fall on these bolts--they've really seen their better days. Move up to the top of a small block under a large, R-facing dihedral. Aid up this thin crack using the micro cams, TCUs, and small stoppers (down to #2). This goes clean thanks to the old pin scars, but the rock is a little soft. After aiding up the corner, it is not too bad to free-climb the rest of the pitch at about 5.8, but it is a little spicy since the rock is a little crumbly in spots. Belay on top of a pedestal where there are two drilled angles for protection.
P2: Move up the ramp to a large flake using some large stoppers and med-lrg Friends for pro. Clip an old drilled angle, then move around the corner to the right. Belay at the base of a short offwidth crack.
P3: Tackle the nice OW (5.8) and use a large piece like a #5 Camalot or similar. If you don't have one, a medium stopper and a small Alien can be used in a thin seam on the left. Top out and enjoy the view!
Descent: There are two possibilities for making it back to the canyon rim. 1: Rap back to the notch with TWO 50m ropes, then jug back up your fixed line 150ft. The anchor on top is two drilled angles and some old webbing--bring a knife and a new piece of cord with you to replace some old stuff and inspire a little more confidence. 2: From the start of the route, attach your fixed line from the canyon rim to yourself and bring it up to the summit. A tyrolian can be set up here with this line and your additional lead line. We did not do this method, but on second thought, it seems like more fun and less work than bringing a 3rd rope and jugging back up 150ft. One other thing about the tyrolean logistics is the 50m fixed line will not reach the start of the route, so you'll have to attach it on the lead line and pull it up when you're about 1/2 way up the pitch.
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