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Middle Teton
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Buckingham (SE) Ridge 
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Middle Teton Glacier Route 
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Northwest Ice Couloir 
Southwest Couloir 
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Southwest Couloir 

YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I British: M 1a

   
Type: Trad, Alpine, 4000', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I British: M 1a [details]
FA: H. Morris and I. Christensen, 1927
Season: Summer
Page Views: 4,044
Submitted By: George Bell on Mar 19, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: The upper couloir can be reached from a trail that...

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Description 

This is the standard route on the Middle Teton. From the Meadows, head up the south fork of Garnet Canyon. Going up this fork is more time consuming than the north fork due to a lack of a (decent) trail. Climb all the way to the saddle between the Middle and South Tetons (do not branch off right early).

The couloir should now be obvious on the left (west) side of the ridge leading to the summit. If snow-filled, ice axe and crampons will be needed. It seems, however, that this couloir melts out relatively rapidly. I remember it becomes quite narrow towards the top, and is a bowling alley if anyone is above you. Helmets recommended! The couloir tops out very near the summit.


Location 

Descend the same route.


Protection 

None.



Photos of Southwest Couloir Slideshow Add Photo
Southwest Couloir from the South Teton (8/94).
BETA PHOTO: Southwest Couloir from the South Teton (8/94).
Matt Schroer, Ryan Choi, and Kent Christensen on the summit of Middle Teton
Matt Schroer, Ryan Choi, and Kent Christensen on t...
Looking up at the top section of the Southwest Couloir, June 15th 2013
Looking up at the top section of the Southwest Cou...
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By Matt Schroer
From: Logan, Utah
Sep 6, 2011
rating: 3rd 1- 1 I M 1a

An excellent scramble. Did this in early September - take an ice axe and wear a helmet in the couloir. Crampons were not used, but missed while crossing rock hard snowfields at 6am. How is the summit view? Get up there and see for yourself - you will not be disappointed.