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Southwest Chimney (aka B.O.B.) T 
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Southwest Chimney (aka B.O.B.) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Eric Barrett, Bob Ordner and Rusty Baille 2009.
Page Views: 609
Submitted By: Chris Doll on Jul 12, 2013  with updates from Nick Sweeney

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Bob on lead above chimney, belaying me on first pi...

Description 

This route can probably be done in one pitch, but there would be too much rope drag. The first pitch is a low grade friction slap to some chains, then its up into a wide off width chimney with 3 bolts. The chains are at the top of the chimney, or you can scramble up a bit further to another set of chains that can be rapeled off.

Location 

The obvious large crack that runs up the southwest corner of the Big Rock

Protection 

5 bolts on the bottom section with rapel rings and an anchor station. 3 bolts in the chimney with your choice of chains on the chimney section.


Comments on Southwest Chimney (aka B.O.B.) Add Comment
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By applewood
From: Tonasket, WA
Jul 23, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

My daughter and I did this route as one long pitch last weekend (maybe 160'). I skipped a few bolts and used longer slings on a couple to reduce rope drag, but it was fun with no real drag. The 2nd long pitch (5.1 and maybe 180') to the top was the most fun though, it needed a couple of cams as well as the lone bolt I found, and the long runouts and wind gave it an alpine feel. I think the main route would benefit from some rebolting to straighten the line some and eliminate unnecessary placements, as the chimney is well worth doing.
By Nick Sweeney
From: Spokane, WA
May 3, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This chimney is an exciting lead for the grade, and is recommended for the Big Rock enthusiast. I've never done the first pitch, but you can link the South Face routes to the anchor below the chimney (I love "Around the Horn" as a first pitch). One you top out from the chimney, head right around the bulge for some 4th class to the summit or head left to a bolt protecting a single 5.10 move before rolling 4th class to the summit.

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