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 ADVANCED
Fourth Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Candelaria's Crack T 
Flake T,TR 
Heartland, The T 
Mickey Mantle T 
Northwest Face T 
Scrundle Corner T 
Smooth Groove T 
South Face Roof 
Southwest Chimney T 
Undocumented Free Roof T 
Unknown Mixed Route aka The Green Gargoyle? T 
Unknown, The T 
Zolar Czakl T 
Zolar Czakl (Direct) T,TR 

Southwest Chimney 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Jim Erickson, Solo, 1974
Page Views: 433
Submitted By: James Beissel on Apr 21, 2008

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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

In case you are unable to identify this route as a bomb line, and against all better judgment decide to climb it anyway, be warned! This chimney has a large, very loose death block resembling a 10' torpedo perched on end. A gentle tap of the foot is enough to wobble this two ton mass of granite on its base.

If it were not for the scary block and abundant choss, this route does have 20-30' of decent chimney and might appeal to someone looking to improve their skills in that area.

Location 

This chimney is located at the uppermost (west) end of the grassy ramp that runs along the bottom of the south side of the Fourth Elephant Buttress just left of a steep, blocky, 10' wide fin of rock. This is about 30' left of the South Face Roof route.

A number of descent options exist, see the Fourth Elephant Buttress overview page.

Protection 

Standard rack.


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