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Southwest arete T 
West NW Face Anderson-Garrett T 

Southwest arete 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Season: summer
Page Views: 4,284
Submitted By: jon jugenheimer on Aug 22, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Southwest Arete - corners galore!

Description 

hike up to the base of the spire on the southwest side of it by following a system of grassy ledges from below. the route is described in the "Hiking and climbing in the Winds...." very well (plus the sense of adventure). The route follows the ridge and the face to the right of it all the way up. One crux is on the second pitch and the other crux is up high, before the chimney pitch, depending on what path you choose on pitch 5/6. you can get down in 5 raps with two ropes (highly recommended)

Protection 

standard alpine rack, we found small stuff very usefull (C3's) up to a number 3 C4


Photos of Southwest arete Slideshow Add Photo
Joe on belay, with deep lake directly behind him
Joe on belay, with deep lake directly behind him
I'm following the second pitch. you can see the grassy approach ledges to get to the base of the route below center, and the first pitch starts on the broken rubble left of me.
I'm following the second pitch. you can see the gr...
joe mucci leading on pitch 2. the wall of East Temple Peak is on the far right. Right below the rope in this shot, is one of the cruxes of the route, getting off the belay ledge and into a dihedral.
joe mucci leading on pitch 2. the wall of East Tem...
Myself and joe mucci, looking at the camera, with the camera looking up the route. photo by some guy named dave, we never liked him all that much....
Myself and joe mucci, looking at the camera, with ...
The three of us on top, myself, dave and joe.  You can see the nasty weather rolling in to catch us on the way down.
The three of us on top, myself, dave and joe. You...
Joe leading pitch 3
Joe leading pitch 3
Dave happy after crux #1 on pitch 2.
Dave happy after crux #1 on pitch 2.

Comments on Southwest arete Add Comment
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By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Aug 13, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Great Route! One note on the descent. With two ropes, the first rap gets you to an anchor below the chimmney. The second rap angles a bit to the west, to a ledge with another anchor (not on route). On the 3rd rap, we ended up dropping a full 60m to a ledge without established anchors. We ended up traversing the ledge (4th class) west to the top of the second pitch.
By notmyname
From: Stony Brook, NY
Jul 10, 2012

s.a.n.d.b.a.g.g.e.d. @ 5.10a/b!!!

last few pitches:
10a corner - felt like 10c. save #3 for the belay on the arete
10b face - holy crap. felt like 5.11b and spicy
5.9 traverse - getting to the traverse is an eye opener, traverse WAAAY around right. I imagined a ledge, or something inside the 5.7 chimney. No, the hand traverse sticks you straight inside the steep, smooth, and wide/offwidthy chimney. We bailed here. I didn't have a #4 or #5 cam to set up a hanging belay, and had too much drag (and no wide gear) to keep going. Maybe the last pitch is indeed a 5.7 chimney, but it sure didn't look like it! Have fun. The is a ledge with rap anchors 30 feet below the end of the traverse. We left gear, and lowered to the ledge, where I then "toprope" belayed my partner around the hand traverse, and lowered him down to the ledge.

From that ledge, one 70m rope gets you off. No idea why you would consider two ropes, unless you like getting ropes stuck.
By matt j hartman
From: lander, wy
Jul 18, 2013

one of the best 5.10's in the area. the view from the top is amazing. good gear and great ledges, except the belay for the last pitch, which (if you have opposable thumbs) takes excellent gear. The face pitch (p6) is excellent, well protected, and very thought provoking. Did a short rap first, then double ropes to the ground. This route was put up by jay wilson and the banditos, so don't expect a walk up for the grade. That being said, it is pretty spot on with grades. P6 is 10b for sure.
By Kenny P
From: Woodland Park
Aug 2, 2013

I did this route years ago (2000 maybe) with Dan Foster. We both felt 10a was a righteous "sandbag" from none other than good 'ol Stan Mish one of the "Banditos"!!! Great guy, I actually worked for him. His recollection was quite fuzzy bc he'd done the route eons ago. However my partner and I felt the route to be somewhere in the 10+/11- range... which is quite a bit different than Alpine 10a!
Anyway, great route and you're almost assured to have not just the route, but the entire Cirque to yourself. Go do it!
By JedAK
Aug 20, 2013

We climbed to the base of the chimney pitch and bailed in poor weather. Rappelling the line with one 70 meter rope was easy. The raps are well established which makes this route very appealing if there is iffy weather, unlike most routes in the area.
Many comments on this route suggest a severe sandbag. Four of us climbed this route in two teams and all agreed it was a solid 10a/b. The last 5.10 pitch has very tiny tech gear. Some route finding was necessary. We could all see how some folks could get off route and make it much, much more spicy.