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Southwest arete 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
Season: summer
Page Views: 5,887
Submitted By: jon jugenheimer on Aug 22, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Southwest Arete - corners galore!


hike up to the base of the spire on the southwest side of it by following a system of grassy ledges from below. the route is described in the "Hiking and climbing in the Winds...." very well (plus the sense of adventure). The route follows the ridge and the face to the right of it all the way up. One crux is on the second pitch and the other crux is up high, before the chimney pitch, depending on what path you choose on pitch 5/6. you can get down in 5 raps with two ropes (highly recommended)


standard alpine rack, we found small stuff very usefull (C3's) up to a number 3 C4

Photos of Southwest arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Joe on belay, with deep lake directly behind him
Joe on belay, with deep lake directly behind him
Rock Climbing Photo: I'm following the second pitch. you can see the gr...
I'm following the second pitch. you can see the gr...
Rock Climbing Photo: joe mucci leading on pitch 2. the wall of East Tem...
joe mucci leading on pitch 2. the wall of East Tem...
Rock Climbing Photo: Myself and joe mucci, looking at the camera, with ...
Myself and joe mucci, looking at the camera, with ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The three of us on top, myself, dave and joe.  You...
The three of us on top, myself, dave and joe. You...
Rock Climbing Photo: Joe leading pitch 3
Joe leading pitch 3
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave happy after crux #1 on pitch 2.
Dave happy after crux #1 on pitch 2.

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By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Aug 13, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Great Route! One note on the descent. With two ropes, the first rap gets you to an anchor below the chimmney. The second rap angles a bit to the west, to a ledge with another anchor (not on route). On the 3rd rap, we ended up dropping a full 60m to a ledge without established anchors. We ended up traversing the ledge (4th class) west to the top of the second pitch.
By notmyname
From: Stony Brook, NY
Jul 10, 2012

s.a.n.d.b.a.g.g.e.d. @ 5.10a/b!!!

last few pitches:
10a corner - felt like 10c. save #3 for the belay on the arete
10b face - holy crap. felt like 5.11b and spicy
5.9 traverse - getting to the traverse is an eye opener, traverse WAAAY around right. I imagined a ledge, or something inside the 5.7 chimney. No, the hand traverse sticks you straight inside the steep, smooth, and wide/offwidthy chimney. We bailed here. I didn't have a #4 or #5 cam to set up a hanging belay, and had too much drag (and no wide gear) to keep going. Maybe the last pitch is indeed a 5.7 chimney, but it sure didn't look like it! Have fun. The is a ledge with rap anchors 30 feet below the end of the traverse. We left gear, and lowered to the ledge, where I then "toprope" belayed my partner around the hand traverse, and lowered him down to the ledge.

From that ledge, one 70m rope gets you off. No idea why you would consider two ropes, unless you like getting ropes stuck.
By matt j hartman
From: Leavenworth WA
Jul 18, 2013

one of the best 5.10's in the area. the view from the top is amazing. good gear and great ledges, except the belay for the last pitch, which (if you have opposable thumbs) takes excellent gear. The face pitch (p6) is excellent, well protected, and very thought provoking. Did a short rap first, then double ropes to the ground. This route was put up by jay wilson and the banditos, so don't expect a walk up for the grade. That being said, it is pretty spot on with grades. P6 is 10b for sure.
By Kenny P
From: Woodland Park
Aug 2, 2013

I did this route years ago (2000 maybe) with Dan Foster. We both felt 10a was a righteous "sandbag" from none other than good 'ol Stan Mish one of the "Banditos"!!! Great guy, I actually worked for him. His recollection was quite fuzzy bc he'd done the route eons ago. However my partner and I felt the route to be somewhere in the 10+/11- range... which is quite a bit different than Alpine 10a!
Anyway, great route and you're almost assured to have not just the route, but the entire Cirque to yourself. Go do it!
By JedAK
Aug 20, 2013

We climbed to the base of the chimney pitch and bailed in poor weather. Rappelling the line with one 70 meter rope was easy. The raps are well established which makes this route very appealing if there is iffy weather, unlike most routes in the area.
Many comments on this route suggest a severe sandbag. Four of us climbed this route in two teams and all agreed it was a solid 10a/b. The last 5.10 pitch has very tiny tech gear. Some route finding was necessary. We could all see how some folks could get off route and make it much, much more spicy.
By tim
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 15, 2015

Great route, all the sandbag talk had me a little nervous but it definitely is no harder than 10b. Also, no sun till noon-ish.
By Casey Engstrom
From: Lincoln, NH
Aug 14, 2016

There's a hand crack maybe 15' up inside the chimney pitch, so no need for big sizes! We got off route on the 10a pitch before the crux pitch, beta is you traverse left on a boulder/ledge onto the arete after the short 5.10a corner, this sets you up right below the facey 10b pitch. To avoid drag maybe belay immediately after the 10a corner, then simul traverse to the left and set up another belay below the crux? Just a hypothetical idea...

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