Southwest arete 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, Grade IV |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | |
| Season: | summer |
| Submitted By: | jon jugenheimer on Aug 22, 2007 |
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joe mucci leading on pitch 2. the wall of East Tem...
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Description hike up to the base of the spire on the southwest side of it by following a system of grassy ledges from below. the route is described in the "Hiking and climbing in the Winds...." very well (plus the sense of adventure). The route follows the ridge and the face to the right of it all the way up. One crux is on the second pitch and the other crux is up high, before the chimney pitch, depending on what path you choose on pitch 5/6. you can get down in 5 raps with two ropes (highly recommended)
Protection standard alpine rack, we found small stuff very usefull (C3's) up to a number 3 C4
I'm following the second pitch. you can see the gr...
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Myself and joe mucci, looking at the camera, with ...
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Joe leading pitch 3
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Joe on belay, with deep lake directly behind him
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The three of us on top, myself, dave and joe. You...
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Southwest Arete - corners galore!
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Dave happy after crux #1 on pitch 2.
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| Comments on Southwest arete |
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By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Aug 13, 2008
rating: 5.10
| Great Route! One note on the descent. With two ropes, the first rap gets you to an anchor below the chimmney. The second rap angles a bit to the west, to a ledge with another anchor (not on route). On the 3rd rap, we ended up dropping a full 60m to a ledge without established anchors. We ended up traversing the ledge (4th class) west to the top of the second pitch. |
By notmyname
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 10, 2012
| s.a.n.d.b.a.g.g.e.d. @ 5.10a/b!!!
last few pitches:
10a corner - felt like 10c. save #3 for the belay on the arete
10b face - holy crap. felt like 5.11b and spicy
5.9 traverse - getting to the traverse is an eye opener, traverse WAAAY around right. I imagined a ledge, or something inside the 5.7 chimney. No, the hand traverse sticks you straight inside the steep, smooth, and wide/offwidthy chimney. We bailed here. I didn't have a #4 or #5 cam to set up a hanging belay, and had too much drag (and no wide gear) to keep going. Maybe the last pitch is indeed a 5.7 chimney, but it sure didn't look like it! Have fun. The is a ledge with rap anchors 30 feet below the end of the traverse. We left gear, and lowered to the ledge, where I then "toprope" belayed my partner around the hand traverse, and lowered him down to the ledge.
From that ledge, one 70m rope gets you off. No idea why you would consider two ropes, unless you like getting ropes stuck. |
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