Southwest Arete 5.8+
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | ? |
| Submitted By: | Tim Steele on May 3, 2007 |
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Highball bouldering in the buttermilks
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Description This often photographed arete ascends one of the tallest boulders in the country, and is a classic buttermilking experience not to be missed.
Start on the face about 10 feet right of the arete, then trend left to the arete and up to an airy perch. Move right following the lip patina to a memorable rock-over with about 35 feet of air under you.
Now find your way down the backside (more or less North east).
Location Think about the name folks. On the Grandma Peabody.
Protection There are top-rope anchors if you want. But, the access is a 45 foot 5.6 slab on the other side. Also the down-climb.
Grandma peabody and the moon
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Southwest Arete
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Chris Geis on "Southwest Arete".
Photo by Blitzo.
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Southwest Arete
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Southwest Arete.
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| Comments on Southwest Arete |
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By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Sep 21, 2008
| The crux is the beginning but the 5.8 friction move at 30+ feet is puckerific! Don't fall. |
By D-Storm
Oct 22, 2008
| Because we're dealing with something usually climbed as an onsight freesolo, I feel obligated to throw my opinion into the mix and say that rating this route 5.8+ is a sandbag. The consensus of 5.9+ seems quite fair, but I will add that going up this with a mindset of 5.10- will make it seem easier and much more fun.
Oh, and do you see the spots where patina plates have pulled out? Think about those before yarding fast and desperate on the ones at the rock-over finish. (I was once a stupid youth who put too much stock in what everyone else said, and at the time I would've hopped on this route with a very different 5.8 experience in mind; I speak to such people here.) |
By Chad_N
From: SEKI, Ca
Mar 23, 2010
| really fun climb !
the face at the start feels like 5.9+ then it gets easy. super high and great fun. |
By SKI
From: Portlandia, OR
Oct 12, 2010
| Ha, I remember standing on my buddy's shoulders to get off the ground here. |
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