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Rebel Wall
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Southpaw S 
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Southpaw 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: R. Laird and C. Laird (5/08)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 769
Submitted By: ryan laird on Oct 11, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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At the start.
Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This sparring match begins on the face of the large, right-facing dihedral, which is just to the left of the corner crack Body English. Use some fancy footwork through the edgy climbing, step off the ledge into the shallow, aręte crack and follow it to a second small ledge below a blocky, overhanging, right-facing dihedral. Clip the bolt above the ledge, move up to the dihedral, and carefully clip the next bolt out left above the blocky dihedral. Sequence your “punches” and pull out the southpaw to reach the top.


Protection 

Climbs on all bolts, approximately [11] QDs. An optional, large, hand-sized piece of gear could be placed in the blocky dihedral. The top/new anchor is two coldshuts.



Photos of Southpaw Slideshow Add Photo
Lower crux at 3rd bolt.
Lower crux at 3rd bolt.
Just getting started on South Paw at Rebel Wall.
Just getting started on South Paw at Rebel Wall.
Comments on Southpaw Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
May 5, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Nice climb. There are 7 well-spaced bolts from the base to the "bolt above the ledge" in the description, and I only found one more bolt above that point before the top anchors. So take 8 draws and perhaps a little trad gear for the top section. A big cam is comforting to get through the crux move above the ledge, and/or it's easy to sling a rock above this crux. Even though it's a bit runout with only one bolt in the last 30 ft, it's easy going.

By Doug Redosh
May 5, 2010
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Bottom is trickier than it looks. The holds work best if you lean to the R. The crux is moving up to the "blocky overhang". 10a/b.

By AOSR
From: Wherever we park!
Aug 19, 2010

What an utter disappointment.

By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Apr 8, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

10 bolts and 4 cruxes...
1st steep face at bottom
2nd pulling off the ledge @ 4th bolt
3rd clipping 5th bolt (awkward!)
4th physical crux, pulling over overhang @ 8th bolt (these moves alone make the route worth while!)

Sounds like Dave Clark 5.10 may have missed the moves out left... if you stay to the right rather than pull over the overhang, you will miss two bolts and be on crappy rock....

No supplemental gear needed. Just draws....

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Apr 8, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The two bolts left of the "blocky dihedral" are hard to see, and it is easy to move right to easier terrain and miss them all together.

By Kevin Gillest
From: Arvada, CO
Jun 11, 2012

Not the best route we have ever climbed, but one of the better routes at Rebel Wall. After the hand jam, climb up and over minor over hang, a few harder moves, easily avoidable though. If this route is climbed up and over the minor overhang, my opinion, it's harder than 10a.

By the way, 11 total bolts, crux at 9-10.

By goingUp
Apr 9, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Definitely a two, maybe even a 3 crux climb.... The first one is moving towards the third bolt, which isn't so bad, just more commiting than anything.... After the top bolt, commit over the overhang 2 was a bit strange, a number 2 cam can be placed in the crack out left with a runner to protect just above the last bolt giving me ease in making the last transition. I suppose that one could switch across the face back towards body English, but the roof was a fun maneuver.