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South Park

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In the trees 
Main Wall 
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South Park  


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Location: 43.5963, -111.6331 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 7,232
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Justin Brunson on Dec 25, 2010
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Fun Deadpoint on EDS. photo by Dean Lords.

Winter closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

South Park is certainly a unique crag. You'll find it on the same road as Heise Rock. This concludes the list of similarities.

South Park offers no single-digit routes, and most lines go easier than 12c. Most of the wall overhangs about 6 feet in 90. The stone is broken and sometimes loose, and by all indications will continue to be so until the rapture. This place cannot be treated like a gym. Holds break unexpectedly. Pay attention and communicate with your belayer.

The real essence of South Park climbing is the overwhelming prevalence of open-handed pinches. Climbing here tends to be pumpy more than technical. Think fitness over bouldery cruxes.

Watch out for snakes and falling rock. Do not belay directly under the climber. Do not flake your rope directly under the climber unless you like core shots. Bring your stick clip and have a great time.

For more info visit seiclimbing.com

The area guidebook is Sweet Spots, by Jerry Painter and Matt TeNgaio. Southpark is not included in the current edition but you should buy it anyways. Seriously.

Getting There 

Follow directions to Heise Rock. Continue east past Heise a little less than a mile until you reach a dirt road on the right. Follow this road about 4 miles.
You'll see a large sign saying "Wolf Flats". The wall is .8 miles past this sign.
You can park in the little turnout directly across from the wall, or in the dirt "lot" about 100 yards past.

Climbing Season



Weather station 15.2 miles from here

17 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',3],['5.11',4],['5.12',8],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Park:
Smug Alert   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Main Wall
Who Killed Kenny   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Main Wall
Scuzzlebutt   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   In the trees
Mr Hankey   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   In the trees
Temptation   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   In the trees
Hippy Digger   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Main Wall
Drive-by Trucker   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   In the trees
Make Love Not Warcraft   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Main Wall
Ricardo Gets an Anal Probe   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   In the trees
EDS   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   In the trees
Browse More Classics in South Park

Featured Route For South Park
crux of In Between Days

In Between Days 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b  ID : South Park : In the trees
Steep start with big moves and some underclings lead to the crux, which involves some big brick pinches to a precise move to a pocket. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in ID

Comments on South Park Add Comment
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By Derrick
Jun 9, 2013
Please read this note by Dean Lords, the area developer and one who has worked hard at getting access to these great crags.

  • **IMPORTANT NOTE
Please do not park on the road below Pointless or across from South Park. The BLM is heavily monitoring our usage at these crags as they plan to impliment a management policy for rock climbing in the South Fork Corridor.

The BLM folks do not want us parking on the road or creating new parking places by cutting down or diving over living things. Please, please, please understand that negative actions in the BLM's eyes WILL result in area closures.

The new fee at Heise will increase the user traffic at other neaby areas. Do your part to not create concerns for those land management agencies who are paying attention to what happens at the local crags.