So the wife booked a weekend at Sorell Ranch near Moab for us in late May. Sunday, we'd like to climb. I've never climbed in Utah nor on desert sandstone. I can lead trad up to 5.7 and probably the same for sport. My wife has only climbed twice...ever and I want her to have fun on some easy stuff 5.6 and below.

So, my question is: Where can we find easy <5.6 one pitch routes close to town? We won't have time to travel far from town itself since we'll be driving back to Golden sometime that afternoon. Trad or sport...it doesn't matter but TR'ing would be ideal for her.

I browsed the route finder thing here and there wasn't much and they were all spread out so I'm hoping you guys/gals can steer me in a better direction.

Thanks!

There really isn't much at that level on desert sandstone. Maybe the schoolroom slab at Potash and if you can get up a route at the Ice Cream Parlor in Kane Creek.

Andrews right, school room or the ice cream parlor. That's literally it as far as I know.

Yep, that's your best shot. The ice cream parlor has 3 5.6-5.7 bolted lines and 1 5.6 trad line as well as several 8 trad lines. I'm sure other people there would be happy to put a rope up for you if you are not comfortable leading. It can get busy on weekends. Its 15 or 20 minutes from town. My post on the following link will tell you which route is which.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/utah/moab_area/kane_springs>>>>>

Also, Wall Steet (aka Potash Rd) has 2 tr areas. One is the school room
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/utah/moab_area/potash_road/>>>>>

The other is sometimes referred to as school room 2 or tr slabs and is just a little further down the road. It had a 5.7 bolted line. I believe called puppy love. Only the first 15 feet is 5.7, the rest is much easier. Enjoy, Greg

Going on your own at a 5.7 trad leading ability is going to leave you with a bad taste for desert climbing. You have already made a choice to stay at a primo resort smack-dab in the middle of the crack climbing and sicko tower mecca of the planet, so why should you "go cheap" on your climbing experience? You are a stone's throw from some of the best climbs in the country...Hire a local guide - climb Castleton or some other wicked cool nearby tower - have the climbing experience of your lifetime - you will not regret it.

Nice Peter. Glad your back. Send me a email about the river trip.

Thanks for the recommendations. Pete, I'd love to do a wicked-cool tower, but the wife has only been on rock twice and she's not ready for multi-pitch stuff. I'll be back in the fall with friends to do some climbing and will get on the good stuff then. I'll probably head to Ice Cream Parlor and if time permits we'll check out Wall Street.

Can any of you recommend a good guidebook for the area?

The Parlor and Wall Street will have so many people you don't have to rush out and buy a book if you don't want to. The only book I know that has both locations is the Falcon guide for Climbing Utah. Or just print up some info from this site.

FYI: Although the parlor and wall street are only 1 mile away from each other as the crows fly they are about 20-30 min apart in a car. They are on opposite sides of the Colorado River and require going back into town to get from one to the other. Trying to do both in one day might be tough if you are leaving yourself time for the drive back to Golden.

If you don't want to climb with the wife you can always go soak in Glenwood on the way back.

Fred Knapp's guide Classic deser climbs is good for Ice Cream Parlor and wall Street and for the Moab area in general. For Ice cream parlor you will get better info on this site and print my comment which desribes where the routes are from left to right.