By Justin Lofthouse
From Utah
Apr 9, 2008
| Can you bivy at the traverse on Sheer Lunacy. How many sets of met. tcu's would you suggest... Can it be done with small stopers? |  |
By bsmoot
Apr 9, 2008
| Justin:
Looking at my old topo I listed 5 each #00 - #0 and 3 each #1-2 tcu's. We also placed many small stoppers...the size just smaller than a #00 tcu. This was for the long pitch above the traverse ledge. My gear lists are a bit conservative though. | |
By Stevie Nacho
From Utah
Apr 9, 2008
| Sheer Lunacy is really fun! I've done it twice, before it was freed and since. It's more mellow since Heirich bolted above Toquerville tower, but still really good. You'll wonder why it has its name, but you understand in the end. Bring a large clean aid rack and enjoy. I can't help much with the bivi beta, because I slept on a port-a-ledge one time, and did it in a day the other. The best part about Sheer Lunacy is that you can watch the others deal with each other on the popular routes, while you enjoy your own pace.
Good route that looks lame from the road.
p.s. bring a #4 camalot | |
By Michael Schneiter
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Apr 10, 2008
| I haven't bivied at the traverse but I believe you can. I remember it being a nice, sandy ledge with enough room for spending a night. For gear, I don't remember exactly what I brought, but I remember using a bunch of offset Aliens on the 5th pitch. Overall, I would think that 3 sets of TCUs would be ample, if you're comfortable back cleaning and placing stoppers where possible. Enjoy, it's a great route and not as hard as some people make it out to be. | |
By Brian in SLC
From Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 10, 2008
| Justin Lofthouse wrote: Can you bivy at the traverse on Sheer Lunacy. How many sets of met. tcu's would you suggest... Can it be done with small stopers?
I think there'd be enough room, but, as mentioned elsewhere on the 'net, hauling on that route would SUCK.
Fix and fire.
Or, get an early start and do it in a day. Goes pretty fast.
-Brian in SLC | |
By Michael Schneiter
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Apr 10, 2008
| Brian in SLC wrote: I think there'd be enough room, but, as mentioned elsewhere on the 'net, hauling on that route would SUCK.
Not to discount anyone's opinion, but I didn't think the hauling on this route sucked by any means. I've also heard about how hauling sucks on this route from people or from the net. In our experience, it was easy going and went really smooth. There are a couple of traverses to deal with but they went just fine. And, we didn't have any problem with the bags getting stuck anywhere. It was my partner's first wall and we planned on spending two nights, but topped out at 4 in the afternoon on the second day after sleeping on the top of 3. After we did it, we encouraged some friends to do it who only had a few walls under their belts. We shared our beta and they also did it just fine, with hauling. So, for whatever it's worth, I don't know that hauling is that bad on this route. Still, I'm a big advocate of doing walls in Zion in a day or as a fix and blast, and this route is certainly a good one for that. | |
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