By Shanti From Palmer, AK Mar 16, 2006
| Does anyone have anything to say about this route? Gear suggestions? |  |
By Mike Morley Administrator From Oakland, CA Mar 17, 2006
| Here's what I can tell you, having been on the nearby Deep Voodoo, but NOT having climbed Playing Hooky:
This will give you basic directions to Kane Springs Canyon. The Middle Tombstone is easy to spot from the road. The route is about 450' in length, and goes pretty much straight up the middle. It's usually done in 4 or 5 pitches up to C2 in difficulty. I reckon you'd want a standard desert rack, heavy on the smaller TCUs.
History: It was first climbed by Jimmy Dunn (& Charlie Fowler?) on aid, and was free climbed by Dean Potter and Steph Davis in 2001, who renamed it "Epitaph".
Here's a nice photo of the route taken by Eric Perlman.
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By Rob Dillon From Leadville, CO Mar 17, 2006
| It's been quite a while, but from what I recall you won't want to skimp on the techy tiny stuff. Bring it all.
Awesome video "The Fall" of Dean lobbing big off it on the BD website. This won't happen to you unless you suddenly decide to bust out of your steps and launch up the tips corner for 30-40' or so off a teensy little unit. |  |
By Shanti From Palmer, AK Mar 20, 2006
| Thanks for the advice -- I'll send a post and let you know how it goes. Highly unlikely to get out of my aiders so hopefully the route's not going anywhere while I'm on it! |  |
By Rob Dillon From Leadville, CO Mar 20, 2006
| Some cool free climbs across the way at Abraxas as well, if that's in the game plan.
Gear list addition: you can probably hit ATV'ers from the wall with a well-lobbed water balloon. |  |
By Shanti From Palmer, AK Mar 21, 2006
| I like that idea -- water balloons sound like an excellent addition. I'll check out the routes across the way that you mention as well! |  |
By Joe Forrester From Charlottesville, VA Mar 28, 2006
| I soloed this last year. I would make sure to bring enough small TCUs for the corner pitch. I also found a small bathook helpful on the last pitch. Someone removed the upper anchors, and there were just holes when I did it. I don't really remember needing a bunch of any of the bigger cams; you should be fine with just 1 #3 and 1 #4 Camalot. Loweballs are helpful but by no means neccessary.
Joe |  |
By mbrejcha From Ogden, UT Mar 28, 2006
| Does anybody have beta on the second pitch? Everytime I drive by this route I get out of my truck and look at it, but i've never climbed it because of the second pitch. My guide book says the second pitch is 50 feet of 5.12 face with one bolt. I lead 5.10 and I can't aid a face. Sucks. Is my guidebook full of shit, or should I just continue to sulk until I can lead 5.12 and make it to those beautiful cracks? |  |
By Joe Forrester From Charlottesville, VA Mar 29, 2006
| You can do a 5.7 chimney to get to the base of the cracks instead of the 5.10 face. Just tunnel around the left side of the huge flake that leads to the cracks. From there you are in the cracks and can go the whole way to the top. The majority of this route is just plugin and chugin. |  |
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