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one or two ropes on moses?

  [ Forums > Southern Utah Deserts ]
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By michael layton
From Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 4, 2009

Anyone tried one rope rappelling down Moses? All reports including the instruction manual for moses say two, 'cept on guy said he used a single 60 on pale fire to get off. Anyone? buhler?


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By ben kenobi
From Portland, OR
Apr 4, 2009
when you don't have rock, just use fence posts.  this anchor held a several thousand pound load.

I'm pretty sure one 60m rope wouldn't be enough. I did the n. face rappels last fall, and the second rappel (the one from moses' shoulder) is a long one.

With that said, we rapped past a ton of terrible looking ancient hardware (the n. face bolt ladders). Perhaps we rapped past an ancient bolted anchor...but probably not...and god forbid you actually use such a thing as an anchor.


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By michael layton
From Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 5, 2009

Thanks. It just seemed weird that one person said one 60m is no problem, and everyone else has said two. I'll bring two!


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By MikeSLC
Apr 7, 2009

I know a single 70m on Pale Fire works. Not sure about 60m.


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By summitklimber
From Dillon, CO
May 21, 2009

you should always carry 2 ropes on desert towers!!! If you have 70's even better!!!


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By michael layton
From Salt Lake City, UT
May 21, 2009

always? i think one rope is safer than two for rapelling towers in terms of wind, rockfall, and getting them stuck.


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By Greg D
From Redgardentown, Co
May 21, 2009
Free soloing in NYC 20 years ago, before I knew what climbing was .

alway? I've rapped off a few with just one. Maybe I was wrong.


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By Bill Duncan
From Jamestown, CO
May 24, 2009
The first ascent . . . rapped off from the first belay to take the shot, then jugged back up.  Steve's leading the second pitch, Jon belaying.

An alternative, very easy descent:
There is a route to the left of Primrose (Ed Webster route?) that has very good anchors every 50m or so. Three-bolt stations. To find it from above, rap the last pitch of Moses, and look for a large chimney, with a ledge inside leading to the south face. Walk all of the way to where the chimney meets the void, stick your head out and look to the right. You will see your first set of rap anchors within reach. Hidden until you poke your head out. Three 50m raps in a straight line gets you to the base. This was painless. Two 50's needed, obviously.


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