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It's Not 'Safe'. It's Not the Gym. Some Folks Like It That Way.

  [ Forums > Southern Utah Deserts ]
  
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By Rob Dillon
From Leadville, CO
Apr 13, 2006

I just returned from a week or so down in Indian Creek, where we climbed for a few days on the Bridger Jacks. I was dismayed to find the sort of graffiti usually associated with sport areas all over these amazing towers. To wit:

--Big white tick marks on every single hold on the face pitch of Easter Island. Half the fun of this improbable route entails the deciphering of balancey and (usually) inobvious moves. The other half, I would posit, lies in the remarkable beauty of the location and route-- oh well. If your follower can't figure this moderate classic out for himself, then please go vandalize something at Shelf and take your chalking finger with you.

--A message carved into the rock at the base of Vision Quest: "Death Block at 1 Belay." Really? There's loose rock in the desert? Why, I'd have stayed home with my GameBoy if I'd have known that. This one has cropped up since I last walked by there a couple years ago. Apparently 20+ years of ascentionists have managed to survive this route by developing and exercising the good judgment not to mess with big loose rocks, but some well-meaning dumber-down has now saved all of us from what was evidently obvious enough to all predecessors. This graffiti added nothing but disappointment to our experience of a classic climb. Thanks a bunch, pal.

-- Big white 'X's on one (1) of the maybe 30 loose chunks lying around the ledge at the last pitch of 'Wild Flower'. Again, if this kind of thing (the rocks, I mean) really bothers you, the rap station is right there. It'll take you all the way back to the Red Tape route if you follow the signs.

--and hey, bring your own firewood.

If we don't take care of the place, the BLM is gonna want to do it for us. I like us better.

By Hamish Gowans
From Golden, CO
Apr 14, 2006
"Iceclimber"

Rob Dillon wrote:
If your follower can't figure this moderate classic out for himself, then please go vandalize something at Shelf and take your chalking finger with you.


Amen Rob. I find it highly ironic that you write this on the same day that I, Claudius (bolted crack at Shelf) is the Route of the Day.

By Rob Dillon
From Leadville, CO
Apr 14, 2006

Robert Graves? It's been a long time, but that's a good one. I think they made a movie of it as well.

By Tony Bubb
From Boulder, CO
Apr 14, 2006
Nick Walker, Eric Pinkston, and Tony Bubb climb on the Purdue Campus. Photo taken by a cop, 1992.  No joke.

"Safening" climbing is like any other religion. You're not going to convince people it doesn't have to be that way, so now what do we do?
Read the thread on the "rap tree is not safe on the Vertigo Raps" and you'll see mroe of the same sort of thing.

By Spanish John
Apr 14, 2006

Is this really that big of a fuggen deal. I know it sucks and shit, but come the fuck on, did it really ruin your whole trip. Lighten up. So there are some tick Marks in the desert, people are morons.

By Jason Himick
From Boulder, CO
Apr 14, 2006
Future Goal

Spanish John wrote:
Is this really that big of a fuggen deal.


If that be the case then why make a big deal about the bolt on the Ames Ice Hose? So what if there's a bolt, you don't have to use it, just climb past it, right? So there are some retro-bolts on a classic climb, people are morons.

I'm a fan of using paint marker on routes that are unclear. You know, tag a hold with LH (left hand), M (match)... not to be confused with MA (mantle)... whatever helps a brother out. I mean we can't have novices going up routes without good beta, might as well put the beta right on the rock.

And then the whole chalk debate... hey, some people think growing the sport is good. More climbers means more chalk on holds, people leaving messages on rocks.

By Spanish John
Apr 14, 2006

This shit isn't as easily fixed as a bolt on a route and in my dimwitted opinion it is not really comparable. With the Hose, the Ophir boys just went out and chopped the fucken thing. With ticks on Desert routes it is kind of hard to just wipe off or see them washed away by rain like they are in other places. I say worry about the shit you can fix.

By brent armstrong
From Closer to RR than the Strip
Apr 15, 2006

FYI- I don't climb with chalk..."wasn't me"

By phil broscovak
From Boo-older, Co.
Apr 15, 2006
Stemming the roof to scope out the 'blind' stopper placement, 1986.

Brent, how can you be so sure? No really kudos and props for chalkless climbing

By BWpete
Apr 15, 2006

If you climb in the desert, especially on sandstone ther is no need to use extra chalk. most desert sandstone is gritty and porous enough to take the place of chalk. I have never understood why "those" climbers feel they need to show everyone else where the holds are, and carve their messages in the rock. I say let each person discover each route for themselves. you are right it isnt the gym, and we dont need to see the line of color taped holds extending above us.

By Spanish John
Apr 16, 2006

Mofo doesn't use chalk cause he is a cheap effin bastard

By Chris Perkins
From Avon, Colorado
Apr 16, 2006
me

Leave no trace! This pretty much sums it up. I can't believe someone carved a warning in the rock. Are you fu@$'in kidding me!? If you must use chalk make an extra donation to the access fund so they can help offset your actions. I do use chalk when needed and support the fund, but I detest tick marks.
CP

By Climbingcurmudgeon
Apr 18, 2006

The Climbing Curmudgeon says, "It's our own fault! The beliefs of others are accepted simply because they are different, rather than because they are consistent and reasonable. Our culture teaches us to value the diversity of opinions, rather than giving us the means to arrive at a reasonable consensus. It's a load of touchie-feelie crap, and it must end before the last vestiges of wilderness are overrun by sissy retro-bolters and rock defacers!"

Climbing Curmudgeon says, "Climbing sucks, because it is being overrun by wimps and cowards, on each side of every argument. It's time to realize that the collision of two dogmas can only be resolved one way, and the longer that takes, the more environmental damage that will be done in the interim."

The Climbing Curmudgeon commands the righteous to grow some spine, and put some penalty to these egregious transgressions! Ridiculing the guilty on the internet is a waste of time. It's time to start handing out beatings!

Climbing Curmudgeon says, "You whine, I'll fight!"

Or, I could take the safe way out - fix my hair one more time, buy a shiny new 4-Runner, cut off my nuts, and join in the defiling of our holy lands. At least I'll fit in better.

By Rob Dillon
From Leadville, CO
Apr 19, 2006

It didn't ruin my trip or anything, we had a great time; just cause for dismay. And this message board is one way to convey that so, hopefully, there will be less defacing and dumbing-down in the future. I value the sense of adventure and discovery the desert provides-even when I'm repeating routes-- and I'd hate to see that go away. That's all.


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