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Good Zion Free routes?

  [ Forums > Southern Utah Deserts ]
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By michael layton
From Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 30, 2008

Hey! I had a blast on Iron Messiah and was wondering if anyone could clue me into some great (or at least good) Zion (or close by) free routes?

Gracias!
-Mike


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By TP in SLC
Oct 30, 2008
The 5.9 handcrack on Center Thumb<br /><br />Photo: Eric Draper 2001

Check out the North East Buttress on Angles Landing. A little heady in a few spots but you are in a position un-matched in the Main canyon IMO.


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By michael layton
From Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 30, 2008

thanks!


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By Craig Martin
From Park City, UT
Oct 30, 2008
Holy Smoke, Holy Smoke, plenty bad preachers for<br />The Devil to stoke<br />Feed 'em in feet first this is no joke<br />This is thirsty work making Holy Smoke<br /><br /><br />

A couple of shorter climbs that are very good,

The Headache
Ashtar Command Tower


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By Joe A
Nov 2, 2008

Shune's Buttress is awesome. Definately a step up from Iron Messiah but one of the best in Zion.


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By michael layton
From Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 2, 2008

Yeah, sounds like that's a good one!
Thanks for the 2nd recc on that
-M


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By kevinhansen
From Kanab UTAH
Nov 24, 2008

Craig Martin wrote:
A couple of shorter climbs that are very good, The Headache Ashtar Command Tower


I got the onsight of "the headache" this Saturday and boy was it a trip! THat's a climb I could do again and again. Don't let the first 20 feet fool you, there are some rests occasionaly. Made me feel good seeing the rope hung away from the wall looking down from the first pitch.
I think I found my trad leading limit for now.
Kevin


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By Michael Schneiter
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Nov 24, 2008
Goofin' on the Grand after soloing the Upper Exum with my wife.

Some others to look into: Bits and Pieces, Voice From the Dust, Monkeyfinger, Sunlight Buttress in Kolob, Equinox.


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By kevinhansen
From Kanab UTAH
Nov 24, 2008

Michael Schneiter wrote:
Some others to look into: Bits and Pieces, Voice From the Dust, Monkeyfinger, Sunlight Buttress in Kolob, Equinox.


I've heard Equinox described as a pucker fest and I've heard it as super tame and fun. Which is it?
Kevin


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By kevinhansen
From Kanab UTAH
Nov 24, 2008

While I was there on Saturday, we bumped into Swiss folks (real nice) and they said that there was some rock fall on "The West side of the River" area. They went to climb "If the Shoe Fits" and they said it was terrable, bad anchors, bad approach, bad everything.
Anyone been out there to confirm?
Kevin


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By Michael Schneiter
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Nov 24, 2008
Goofin' on the Grand after soloing the Upper Exum with my wife.

kevinhansen wrote:
I've heard Equinox described as a pucker fest and I've heard it as super tame and fun. Which is it? Kevin


I guess it depends on what you're into or what you're looking for. The crux pitch is fairly serious and the chimneys are chimneys.


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By Caleb Padgett
From springdale, utah
Feb 1, 2009

Equinox was one of the first free routes I did in Zion. The crux is 5.10+, and you will hit a ledge if you fall. The chimney has a 50' runnout above an aging drilled angle, We were constantly knocking rocks off and each were hit at some point. There are many more routes that are better quality climbing, and safer. Not a horror show but will make most 5.10 climbers pucker.


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By bsmoot
Feb 1, 2009
Me in the 70's

There are lots of good routes on the Craigmont wall, above the tunnels.
The Vigil (5.11) on the Watchman is also excellent.


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By Mike Anderson
Feb 1, 2009

Brian means "under the tunnels".


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