OK Gang, Please Read this:

As we all know, a much-publicized climb in the spring of 2006 raised public interest and concern about rock climbing in Arches National Park. Prior to this event, Arches managers had limited contact with climbers and felt no real need for official policies. However, an overwhelming number of letters calling for an outright ban on climbing forced the Park to impose serious restrictions on our sport. Since then, a group of local climbers and the Access Fund have been working with the Park to rehabilitate a good relationship between us.

The Park Service has decided it is time to make an official Climbing Management Plan. This plan could be great for us, or it could be our demise: the key is how we help them make the plan. They are currently seeking input into how the plan should be. If the events of Spring, 2006 were any indicator, an enormous number of letters from environmental groups and anti-climbers will be sent to the Park Service calling for a ban or some draconian restrictions. However, The Park managers will be willing to look at all sides. As a matter of fact, they have shown local climbers that they are willing to work with climbers provided they see a positive result.

That said, it is up to us to send positive letters about the sport. If you have ever climbed in Arches, you should tell them so and tell them you enjoyed it. If you ever want to climb on the unique towers in Arches, you should tell them so. We need to show them that we really do care about the policies and that we want to be able to climb in Arches. We also need to point out that the outright ban on fixed anchors prevents the ascent of the majority of spires and towers (no pitons = no aid). I think most of us would admit we don’t feel a need to climb up on the actual arches, so we should state that. Above all, we need to write positive letters endorsing climbing as a legitimate form of recreation in Arches National Park.

Its easy to write them a short note. If you want to do it online, go to this website: http://parkplanning.nps.gov
At the bottom of the page, pull down the menu and go to “Arches NP”, then click “Plans/Documents open for comment”. The top one is about climbing management. Click
“Comment on Document” and write your small letter. That’s it.
If you want to write out a paper letter, you can send it here:
Superintendent
Arches National Park
PO Box 907
Moab, UT 84532

Here are a few things to keep in mind:

1. The BLM asked for this same sort of input a couple years ago in reference to Indian Creek. They truly wanted to know who the users were, but in the initial round of discussions comments they only received around 30 letters from climbers… they got over 600 from 4wheelers. That’s pathetic… lets not let it happen here. (FYI-climbers got on it in the second round and we were factored in, showing that your opinions can make a difference).

2. Arches National Park is grouped with 3 other Parks in its administration. Many of the rules that govern one Park eventually fall into the rule book for the one next door. In this case, Canyonlands, an area containing more Windgate and Cutler towers than the rest of the world combined, is next door. A draconian rule in Arches could eventually lead to one in Canyonlands. If that’s the case, it would look like a precedent for other Parks in the country to follow. The trickle-down effect could be seen with the BLM and Forest Service. In other words, we could lose a lot more climbing resources than the 76,000 acre’s and 100’s of towers that is Arches.

3. Writing a letter to the Park will take less time than we spend blurbing in online forums.

4. They really do want to hear from us. I know this for a fact, and I know they will listen to positive words we have to say.

5. If we don’t ask for permission, we can’t get mad when we don’t get it.


For additional information contact jason@accessfund.org.


Thanks,
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Arches Task Force Coordinator

The national park website was down earlier today, but its back up... We can send letters in now.
Sam

The "Holy ROman Empire" was neither "Holy" or "Roman"
Discuss...
Oh, did this just pop back up at the top of the forum list????

this post/forum is making the server hiccup...?!?! Hahahaha

I posted a "Thanks Sam" few hrs after Sam's post and it got burped out yet the title appeared 3x with no posts listed -gee-whizzers

OFICIALY AGAIN ~ THANKS SAM for the heads up -- I'll add it to my list of official letter writting which seems to be growing at this time ~(-: >> Pleaz pm if you think of additional ideas/points to be included.

I realize this thread is very old, but I just found it. First I applaud your effort to spearhead this project; it is a noble effort.

Marc,

Just curious as to how many aid routes you have done in Arches NP? I'm thinking apples to oranges here...if you know what I mean.



...and to those of you who chime in that plenty of clean aid routes have been done in the Fishers and Canyonlands......yes, I agree....hammerless is the way to go in the desert, but the few hammerless aid ascents to date in Arches NP on routes like Zenyatta Entrada and Sheep Rock have only been possible because of pin scarring from previous ascents that "enhanced" the placements for clean gear. Climbing on entrada is a trip, to say the least. One thing is for certain...you can't take it for granite....

I agree with Sam that it's far more productive to make our concerns known to the droids in charge than to argue about what's the best beginner shoe, etc etc.

Let's throw down-the park rangers have been dicks about climbing since the Pottergate affair and if that's changeable I think it's worth writing the honchos and putting it out there.

Incidentally waaaaaay too much has already been said on the subject but for my money one drilled up route at Chiselton is still a much bigger debacle than Dean's photogenic "spiritual quest". Bon Jovi landed a chopper on Castleton to film a video, you don't hear anyone banning Aqua Net and Butt-rock to teach those "soul climbers" a lesson-are we all really this fragile and bored that we can get upset about one little 60 ft boulder problem? Sigh.