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fixing/ firing sheer lunacy

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By Andrew Gomoll
From Henderson, NV
Apr 8, 2008
Tangerine Trip

does anyone know if it would be possible to rapel from pitch 4 on this route with 2 ropes? thanks for your help

andrew

By Michael Schneiter
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Apr 8, 2008
Goofin' on the Grand after soloing the Upper Exum with my wife.

Andrew Gomoll wrote:
does anyone know if it would be possible to rapel from pitch 4 on this route with 2 ropes? thanks for your help andrew

If you're talking about from the traverse to the ground, then yes, you should be able to fix and rappel with 2-60 meter ropes. It should be close though. Have fun.

By Tico
Apr 8, 2008

I know you could fix from the bolt anchor in the middle of the traverse (bivy anchor before the "5.6" bit) to the top of P1 with one 60M, then from P1 to the ground with another 60M. It may be problematic to fix from the end of the traverse, also when we did it the anchor there was one bolt and a pretty grainy orange-alien size crack.

Biv'ing on the traverse looks nice, you may want to try that.

By bsmoot
Apr 8, 2008
Me in the 70's

For what it's worth, the climbing goes really fast.

By Brian in SLC
From Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 9, 2008
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

Andrew Gomoll wrote:
does anyone know if it would be possible to rapel from pitch 4 on this route with 2 ropes? thanks for your help andrew


I think that's what we did. If you look at Rex's route topo, he's got an intermediate belay anchor prior to the 5.6 bit on the traverse left after pitch 3. I think that's what we fixed from. Also, I dimly recall that you go down a gully and there's an anchor, or, a place to rig your ropes from, and, I think we used a couple of cams there to redirect and fix the rope. #1 and #2 camalot, maybe.

http://www.bigwall.com/sheerln.html

Brian's right, the climbing goes pretty fast.

Read Rex's trip report. Might convince you not to haul on that route (!).

Try to get that last pitch done in the daylight. The exposure is a doozy!

Cheers.

By Andrew Gomoll
From Henderson, NV
Apr 9, 2008
Tangerine Trip

right on guys, thanks for your help. it sounds like we should just go for it without fixing. thanks a lot, don't be strangers when you come down to redrock.

andrew

By bsmoot
Apr 9, 2008
Me in the 70's

P.S. You don't need cam hooks.

By Andrew Gomoll
From Henderson, NV
Apr 9, 2008
Tangerine Trip

cam hooks, yeah bro, don't worry about that. i am familiar with the rock in zion and have no intentions of using them.


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