So my wife and I dabbled in aid climbing last Spring in Moab. Some of you might remember the thread. We ended up aiding seven "easy" towers in Moab, with the highlights being the Kingfisher and Phantom Sprint (physical!!) in the Fishers.

We have a week at the end of October/early November and are interested in climbing a wall in Zion.

I've certainly heard of all the usual "easy" walls in Zion, but I'd love to hear people's recommendations and opinions for something to try then.

Also - how are crowds then? We have a week, so we aren't against loitering at the base to cherry pick a good time.

Cheers
Andy

Monkey Finger Wall & Sheer Lunacy are not as crowded as the big 4 trade routes. They both have some good ledges so that you can stay organized.

Andy,

I'd recommend Touchstone, it's a classic wall with about 50 percent aid and free. It's also in the sun so will be nice and warm. It starts to get chilly by November.

The new guidebook has a great topo of both the climb and descent.

John

I would second the suggestion of Sheer Lunacy... It has a good mix of aid and free climbing and crowds will not be an issue.... even though there is rarely too much of a que on the other trade walls. If you are solid on 5.10 touchstone will seem more like a free climb than a wall climb, and the free climbing is wonderful. You would end up aiding the first two pitches, free/easy french free the next two, and then cruiser to the top. Touchstone is a must do- ultra classic but may not give you what you are looking for...

C'mon, just go for Moonlight. It's got a lot more of the "wall" feel than any other recommendation, gets some sun, and if you're game you can have the second free the pitches.

Some others to consider that are slightly less travelled are Desert Shield and the North Face (Lowe route) of Angel's Landing.

The N Face of AL is a fantastic route that gets no love. It's a steep, commanding plumb line on the canyon's most prominent feature. That in itself should be enough to warrant traffic, but (snide comment about Prodigal removed so as not to look like an asshole). Besides that, it has a bunch of 5.9 free climbing, and tons of clean aid in nice dihedrals.

Touchstone and Spaceshot are fantastic routes, but you should be able to do those easily in a day. T-stone is basically one to two pitches of bolt ladder (depending on if you do Olevsky pitches or real pitches), then it's 5.9 and under free climbing with a couple spots of 5.11-. Spaceshot is a little harder because there is more aid and you actually have to place gear, but you still get 5 or so pitches of free climbing at 5.10 or under (mostly under), and a couple bolt ladders.

I'd say Spaceshot is your best bet. I've done it, MB and had to back off the 5th pitch of the Lowe routes after dropping all our wires, and I think it's the best intro of those three at least. Easy approach, kind of instant wall feel once you get past the early free pitches and the upper wall is easy but airy aiding. Get an early start and you can probably do it in a day if your system is worked out. The descent is pretty cake too.

MB is probably your next choice if you want to bivy. While the Lowe Route is good (what I've done), it's a big notch up in terms of weirdness and awkwardness.

We did it before it had been done clean. I placed a pin or two on the 6th pitch. Thought it was kinda tricky... I'd call it C3 to be safe. It is sandstone and if something pops, you may hit a sloping ramp. Amazing route though.

Moonlight. Very straight-forward aid climbing. Awesome exposure. Easy descent.

Andy - I agree with the big 4 recommendation - having done three of them. I like the fix 2 to 4 pitches strategy on day one - and then fire on day two. Veterans and wall rats might be able to easily fire these routes in a day - but if you are a wall newbie (such as yourself) or gumby (that would be me), the fix and fire appoach is probably best.

Climb Ohn.

Wallman

The latest topo I have of the lowe route rates it as 5.9 C3-.

Correction: 5.10 c3-

The Lowe route on Angels Landing is an amazing climb but a significant step up in difficulty from the other 4 or 5 routes mentioned. The free climbing is pretty stout for 5.9, the route finding at the top is quite challenging, and the rock in places is loose and sandy. The four trade routes mentioned are childs play compared to this one. This climb took us about 18 hours base to summit whereas touchstone,moonlight, spaceshot were more in the 7-10 hour range. Most parties will need to bivy on this one. The pin on the 6th pitch that Brian mentions is still there, just as things start to get real rowdy and scary you get to clip that bad boy. no need for a hammer or pins now

Andy,

You guys will love Touchstone. GREAT starter route AND approach you guys will cruise it if you cut your teeth in the Fishers already. That being said, if you are looking to step it up a notch from those Fisher routes (I have done both) you should check out Monkeyfinger, lots of good gear, but some weird moves here and there.

Enjoy Zion!

Am I the only one that thinks its kinda strange to aid Monkeyfinger? The thing goes free at 11c. I don't expect everyone to on-sight it, but I would think leaving the ground at least with the goal of french-freeing it would be a bit more sporting. Its way easier than Astroman, and I'm not aware of people aiding that these days. What's the difference?

Nope. It's a long clean free route, the Astroman of Zion. I would never consider aiding it and I don't think many people do.

Eventually, Moonlight will be the same.

I would head up to Moonlight Buttress with the intent of climbing the Lowe/Weiss route. (5.9 C1) If there are crowds, then bail left onto Lunar X or Sheer Lunacy. Lunar X has a couple of heads up spots, but nothing you can't handle if you cut your teeth in the Fishers.

With that said, Touchstone is a great route. There is a nice bivi ledge about 2/3's of the way up.

Have fun.

I don't doubt that in the 70's it was common to aid Monkeyfinger, with or without RonO. My point is that climbing standards have changed quite a bit since then. If you're solid on 5.10 sandstone cracks, and can bust the occasional 5.11, this is a great free route (with a few French-free moves).

PS, I'm aware of the guidebook grade for Monkeyfinger. The Monkeyfinger crack notwithstanding (which is easy to skip at 5.10a), I still believe this is 11c.

Shune's is the Rostrum of Zion. I think it's R&I # 44 or something like that where Jeff Lowe calls Monkeyfinger the Astroman of Zion. Bjornstadt's Desert Rock quotes Middendorf claiming Shune's as the Rostrum of Zion, and I think he wrote most of the Zion portion of that guide. You're not the first to mess that up....

I would add that the Beckey-Rowell-Callis on the GWT is the Lost Arrow chimney of Zion, Moonlight is the S Face of Washington Column of Zion, Lunar X is the Leaning Tower of Zion, The Fang Spire is the Lost Arrow Spire of Zion, Gettin' Western is the W Face of El Cap of Zion, The Headache is the Central Pillar of Frenzy of Zion, the March-Forrest Chimney is the Stech-Salathe of Zion, Angel Hair is the NA Wall of Zion, Cherry Crack is the Reid's Dirrect of Zion, Iron Messiah is the E Butt of El Cap of Zion, Checkerboard Mesa is the Lembert Dome of Zion, the NE Butt of AL is the Crest Jewel of Zion, Tourist crack is the Swan Slab of Zion, Ashtar Command tower is Church Bowl of Zion, Ball and Chain is the Zodiac of Zion and the Narrows is the Tenaya Canyon of Zion.