This post was originally a comment in Plastic Toys

We are going to be in the area soon and I haven't been to t-wall that much, whats the easiest, best protected trad route there? I want to carry a friend to introduce him to some less scary trad than what I put him on at my local crag. I heard this route or nappy is.

Brad -- I'm assuming from your post that your plan is to put your friend on the sharp end, and that he's a relatively new leader. Based on that, I think Nappy might be the best one to start with in terms of easy/well-protected routes at T-Wall. It's got excellent protection and fun climbing. Plastic Toys is good too, but the start (stemming off the top of a boulder onto the face) might be a little heady for a beginning leader. Another possibility is Nutrasweet -- crack climbing with good pro and stances for placement.

I think there's also a 5.5 route right next to Nappy (New Beginnings?), but I don't have my Cragger right now so can't give more details.

JL

Thanks, and yes he's a new leader. I've been working with him (tied into his own rope) on top-rope and letting him place gear and clipping his rope into the gear. Thanks for the info.

If he's a REALLY new leader (that is, never done anything besides mock lead), you might want to consider taking him to Palisades for his first true lead. There's some great easy stuff there (Buckets, 5.4, comes to mind) and the climbs are short and not so sustained and/or committing as T-Wall. Or maybe you've already done that.

JL

Yea, I thought about that, Thanks!

If Nutrasweet is not wet I think it wood be a better rout then plastic toys. it is an direct 5.7 crack with good placements all the way up. it is possible to place gear every 2 feet if needed.

Great Thanks for your help.

Jaywalker.

Jaywalker is nice, but I wouldn't put a new leader on it.

JL

I would. It totally sews-up and since it pretty much follows 2 cracks, there's more opportunity to have the right piece.

Jaywalker is well protected enough to hangdog if the thin section of the right crack gets a little intense. Plastic toys is easier than Nappy, except for the boulder move, which has a great handhold to get you over that gap.