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New River Gorge anchor/bolt replacement

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By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From Plymouth, NH
May 2, 2007
Waiting for lift-off, Thin Air(5.6) Cathedral Ledge, NH

Please excuse any faux pas I may be making by bringing this up, however I would like to raise awareness of this issue.
Over the past years there have been feuds and drama surrounding the local climbing scene in the NRG. Most of this drama has centered upon guiding practices and anchor/bolt replacement practices.

My concern is not about the guiding practices of one company/guide to another(I don't really care). Specifically my concern is about the following: this past fall the New River Alliance of Climbers (NRAC) was giving anchor/bolt replacement gear to under-experienced/inexperienced bolt replacers, while this action I don't think was malicious I was concerned.

One individual in specific had the best intentions, however, many of the first bolts that he placed were not good(for several different reasons which I won't go into). Consequently these replacement bolts have had to be replaced. Due to the individual's inexperience he did not cover up the replacements.

Does anyone have any ideas about training anchor/bolt replacers?
Does anyone have more/different knowledge than I do about this situation?
Any thoughts about who is the party at fault? Is it the Park service leaving the job to NRAC, is it NRAC for handing out gear and permission to inexperienced individuals, or is it the individual for asking for the gear without having the experience in the first place?

Please be adult with your insight/knowledge.
Remember "Guideline #1: don't be a jerk"

By mike mullendore
From columbia, md
May 2, 2007
Whitney from the Alabama Hills

hey Ladd, you bring up some great info. I have heard about these bolting/anchor feuds, granted my info is just one sided. I don't know who messed the stuff up, or any of that info. I think the best way to ensure that future anchors be done soundly is to get all interested parties together and under the tutelage of an experienced climber or guide (someone like Jim T.), everyone learn how its done first, then let them go nuts with replacement once they know what they are doing.

By Jay Young
Jul 18, 2007

Ladd Raine wrote:
Please excuse any faux pas I may be making by bringing this up, however I would like to raise awareness of this issue. Over the past years there have been feuds and drama surrounding the local climbing scene in the NRG. Most of this drama has centered upon guiding practices and anchor/bolt replacement practices. My concern is not about the guiding practices of one company/guide to another(I don't really care). Specifically my concern is about the following: this past fall the New River Alliance of Climbers (NRAC) was giving less than optimal anchor/bolt replacement gear to under-experienced/inexperienced bolt replacers. One individual in specific had the best intentions, however, many of the first bolts that he placed were not good(for several different reasons which I won't go into). Consequently these replacement bolts have had to be replaced. Due to the individual's inexperience he did not cover up the replacements. In addition, NRAC has also been using some wedge bolts instead of using all 5-piece RAWL or Glue-ins(that are ideal for the hard sandstone of the New. Does anyone have any ideas about training anchor/bolt replacers? Does anyone have more/different knowledge than I do about this situation? Any thoughts about who is the party at fault? Is it the Park service leaving the job to NRAC, is it NRAC for handing out gear and permission to inexperienced individuals, or is it the individual for asking for the gear without having the experience in the first place? Please be adult with your insight/knowledge. Remember "Guideline #1: don't be a jerk"



There's nothing faux pas about asking questions. However, it's unclear to me why you posted these questions on an Internet board, rather than walk a block to Water Stone and ask NRAC's Anchor Committee Chairperson, Kenny Parker, all of these questions directly.

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From Plymouth, NH
Jul 19, 2007
Waiting for lift-off, Thin Air(5.6) Cathedral Ledge, NH

I feel uncomfortable walking over to Waterstone and asking Kenny directly.

Additionally, I don't think that Kenny should bear the brunt of my curiousity, especially my relatively uninformed curiousity. Therefore, I thought it would be good to throw it out there on MP.com (note I didn't post it on rc.com) because most of the folks on MP.com seem to me a bit more interested in civility.

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From Plymouth, NH
Jul 19, 2007
Waiting for lift-off, Thin Air(5.6) Cathedral Ledge, NH

On the other hand Jay, I think I will walk over today and talk to Kenny.

By Jay Young
Jul 19, 2007

Good, Ladd! To hear it from the horse's mouth, so to speak, you have to ask the horse. And this case, Kenny is most definitely the horse. Civility or no (I agree with you, BTW), nobody on MP (no offense meant to MP users) can possibly have anything but speculation, hearsay or silence for you.

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From Plymouth, NH
Jul 19, 2007
Waiting for lift-off, Thin Air(5.6) Cathedral Ledge, NH

I've talked with Kenny. Very reasonable fellow with an enemy in town that causes rumors to be spread. Mistakes happen.

By Jay Young
Jul 19, 2007

Ladd Raine wrote:
I've talked with Kenny. Very reasonable fellow with an enemy in town that causes rumors to be spread. Mistakes happen.


That they do. That they do. I've made my share, certainly.


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