I'm going up to LK this Saturday to bivy for a Sunday climb, super stoked. Looks like it might rain up there on Friday, how long do the water groves on Grover and Seconds stay wet??

I know that it "all depends", but from those of you who have been up there after some rain, what was you experience?

Laurel Knob seems to be a water park during the rain, so if it is rolling in on Sunday I'll probably retreat. I 'd like to hear about people's experiences with bailing too....you know.....for fun...

Joey...

Groover will likely be wet above the first pitch where you regain the crack through some nice slab climbing and then up high on the runout section of P4. P6 will also likely be totally out of the question...too much moss and lichen.

Seconds, since it is sustained water groove climbing, will likely have wet spots the whole way up...

Try Central Pillar (haven't done it but hear it dries quickly), Oasis (will be dry), or some of the stuff on the Wild West Wall (quality shorter routes)...email me for more info.

I also hear that Fathom dries reasonably well...haven't checked for myself.

Some other pointers:

When you get to the CCC kiosk, stash water for your hike out as opposed to carting down that huge hill and having to hump it back up. Plan for a three hour return trip unless you are a cardiovascular god. If you have a couple small offset cams, take them. Take fresh headlamps and climb with them. Take raingear up the route with you unless you like to get wet.



Good luck!

I'd like to highly recommend avoiding LK at this point in time. If you do go, expect to become extremely "trashed" on both the trail, and the climb, due to the severe heat expected this weekend. Also, you might wanna consider hiking in very early (dark), and climbing the route before the sun comes around (roughly 11:00). Also take a water filter if you have one. The water sources along the trail near the base are normally plentiful, however, they may be dry now due to the drought. It would be nice to have regardless. Best of luck!

If you live I'll buy you a beer at the 5.

Here's another vote for carrying raingear. I think there are pics on here of our epic.

When we goin back Ben ????

Soon as it cools off a bit and the surrounding area turns into less of a tourist/vacationer locale...word?

Oh yeah.....that kind fellow in the Range Rover did warn us about that didn't he??

I think he said it's like October before Highlands/Cashiers returns to normal.

I cant wait......three words......Dillard Canyon.....&....WOW!!

We will be there tonight. Starting Fathom at 2:00 AM. I will post some pic of the trip.

Um, are you friggin kidding me? Do it.

Go Photodude!

I can't wait to here this TR, and see the pics.

Ben....I just re-read Joey's original post. It requests details of folks experiences with bailing. You wanna handle that one???

You could begin with us scoping routes on the Wild West Wall and end with us abandoning the stuck rope. That would cover the gist of it while omitting the "unecessary" before and after details.......dig?

Please include photos of the traverse as well as the looks of terror on yours and Rhett's faces....I know you still have those pics...lol.

Full or near full moon phase would assist in a nightime ascent.......i'm not sure what phase the moon is in now

Alright, here is the TR boys.

Got to the trail head Saturday night, slept on a nice folding cot (the kind used in base camps, no mattress) out in the open. Perfect night. Up around 4:15 and on the trail by 5 am. Made it to the base of the climb by around daybreak. All the grooves were dry on the face.

Climbed Central Pillar of Laurel, had a great time. The first pitch finger crack is killer and the slabs are heady. Was in the shade all morning, was even a little chilly at the third belay(windy). Sun was on the face by the last pitch. Rapped seconds.

Down at the bottom of the face by 12:30, took a little break and then headed back to the car.

The hike out wasn't all that bad all things considered, it was the hottest part of the day. Took us a little over two hours. Thanks god for the water fall!!!! That hike out is a hairy beast.

Didn't get any action pics. We were moving as fast as we could and to be honest, on that climb there isn't a lot of places you want your belayer to whip out a camera. Most of the good chances to get a cool shot were a little runout.

I'm hooked now, can't wait to go back.

Thanks Ben for your help, we climbed the route we did because of your info.

nbrown, i didn't see your post until today. A water filter would have been nice. I was done with three liters by the time we got back to the water fall. But total avoidance of LK....it really wasn't that bad this time of year, but you definantly want to be getting off the face by noon. It would be hellish to have a bad day there in the summer.

Justin, I want my beer.

oh, I thought this was awesome.

We hung out for a little while with a dude when we got there. He left camp when we beded down for a solo night ascent of Fathom. Now that is going for it!

Sounds like a good time.