Being from the Midwest, I am not quite used to NC runouts, so I was looking for some beta on pitch 4 of Groover. Are the runouts really heady? How is the pro? How solid is the climbing through those runout sections?

I am looking to climb it in early May. Hoping the rain will hold off...

P4 on Groover is seriously run out. I was 60-70' above my last piece before I finally found a placement. If you're not used to runout slab, you might want to get in a little mileage on some easier NC granite before you lead this pitch. You'll also probably not want to do the direct (Gaskin) finish.

The climbing on P4 is up a deep water groove. The groove is fairly featured and is probably not really difficult 5.8 climbing when it's dry. When I led it, though, there was water running in it so I had to stem and friction climb the less-featured outer walls of the groove, which made things a good bit more spicy.

Groover is a great route, you'll enjoy it if you're prepared and solid at the grade. Start early; be aware that most of the pitches are very long (full rope length); double ropes are nice to have.

JL

Thanks for the beta. I am a confident 5.9 leader, but am just hesitant about the runouts. Would Seconds be a better one to tackle?

Seconds is better protected by and large with bolted belays for the most part...bailing would be less painful.

I got rained out the only time I got on Seconds, so I only know the first three pitches, which are well-protected like Ben says. The guide makes reference to some "easy runout" on the last couple of pitches, a term that makes my eyebrow rise, heh heh!

I think since you're a solid 5.9 leader, you can feel safe to go ahead with Groover. The P4 climbing is well within your limits and the runout won't kill you (figuratively or literally).

JL