By Bryan Gohn
From Irvine, CA
Oct 15, 2009
| It's getting to be that time again. I'm still trying to get in a couple more weekends at Idyllwild before the cold hits, but I'm already thinking about Josh. So what's at the top of everyone's list for this winter? I always enjoy route recommendation threads, especially for a place like Josh which has so many routes it's overwhelming. Pictures are great too!
Imaginary Voyage (5.10d) is one that I've always looked up at and thought "what a pain in the ass it must be to get up there for such a short climb". But I have some friends who've said it's their favorite route in the park, so this season I'm going to actually scramble up there and try it.
| Friend, Eric, pulling through the wide roof. What a great route - can't wait to lead it next time!
Submitted By: Craig Randleman on Mar 25, 2009
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Figures on a Landscape (5.10b) is another one that many people call their favorite. I haven't gotten on it in the past because of it's somewhat scary reputation.
| Mike Njoten starting up Figures On A Landscape (5.10b), JTNP.
Submitted By: C Miller on Mar 27, 2006
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Solid Gold (5.10a) I walked up to the base last year with the intention of climbing it. I turned away because of the incredibly slick rock, completely covered with bird shit and feathers. Hopefully this year I'll find it better condition and give it a solid (ha!) attempt.
| 1st pitch - credit card-like holds. Climber: Krzysztof Gorny
Submitted By: Kris Gorny on Oct 13, 2006
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Fisticuffs (5.10b) This one totally kicked my ass last year, but I feel like I've made some significant improvements in my offwidth technique. Yes, offwidth technique, because this isn't even close to a fist crack for me at the top.
O'Kelly's Crack (5.10c) I also tried last year and got shut down. I couldn't pull the opening moves on lead, but after my friend went up it and top belayed me I did them on the first go. So obviously the crux for me is fully committing to the move knowing there won't be a rope to catch me. I did a lot of gym climbing this summer though so hopefully the bouldery start will feel easier now.
| photographer Patrick Olson, climber Luke Olson, enjoying O'Kelley's
Submitted By: Luke Olson on Apr 17, 2004
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And I couldn't find photos of these, but on the Flying Fortress in the North Wonderland is the moderate Thumbs Up (5.10a) along with the uber-physical looking No Self Respect (5.10d) and No Self Confidence (5.10c). Good sunny routes to work on in the dead of winter. | 
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By ian s
Oct 17, 2009
| you know i've never been, but i'm going near the end of november... so now i can attempt some of these cause i have no idea where to go once i'm there:) |
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By Kyle Wills
From San Diego CA
Oct 28, 2009
| I have a huge todo list for the park this winter. Really trying to break into the 10s, but want to get more 9's under my belt. Imaginary Voyage is definitely a route that is driving this desire to lead stronger, that thing looks crazy awesome.
Some highlights on my list to increase my skills are:
Popular Mechanics 9
Touch and Go 9
Pope's Crack 9
Bird on Fire 10a
Early Bird 10a
Tax Man 10a
Crack 6 & 5 in the Isles Corridor
Any other suggestions would be much appreciated |
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By David Aguasca
From Plymouth, NH
Oct 28, 2009
| Going to Joshua Tree this January for the first time, and I've already compiled a hefty (definitely too big) tick list.
Some ones that stand out:
Perpetual Motion 5.10d
Maneater 5.10d
More Monkey than Funky 5.11b
Modern Warfare 5.10a
Imaginary Voyage looks amazing...I was also thinking about Figures, but I think I'll have to wrap my head around some J-tree face routes before I try that... |
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By Kyle Wills
From San Diego CA
Oct 28, 2009
| Definitely top roped Big moe a couple of times, have always considered giving it a shot at leading it. Maybe something to do on my way to some of the more runout face climbs mentioned above. |
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By Bryan Gohn
From Irvine, CA
Nov 2, 2009
| Kyle Wills wrote: I have a huge todo list for the park this winter. Really trying to break into the 10s, but want to get more 9's under my belt. Imaginary Voyage is definitely a route that is driving this desire to lead stronger, that thing looks crazy awesome. Some highlights on my list to increase my skills are: Popular Mechanics 9 Touch and Go 9 Pope's Crack 9 Bird on Fire 10a Early Bird 10a Tax Man 10a Crack 6 & 5 in the Isles Corridor Any other suggestions would be much appreciated
I think Illusion Dweller was the first 5.10 I led in the park. It's a pretty long and sustained pitch by Josh standards so you'll feel like you've really earned that 5.10 grade. But it's also got totally bomber gear the whole way and good stances to place from. Plus there's a hands free stance to shake out just before the crux roof at the top. But that looks like a pretty good list. Popular Mechanics and Pope's Crack are a couple of my favorites.
Last weekend was my first trip out there this season. I had a great couple days of climbing with excellent weather. I fired O'Kelly's first go which I was super excited about. Also tried Wangerbanger which didn't go, but wasn't nearly as sustained as I had expected. It's really only a couple moves of 5.10 thin hands to a couple moves of 5.11 finger stacks and then you're in the pod. Felt hard but it's all there, like maybe if I work it several times I could tick it later this season.
And since we were in the area and it came highly recommended in this thread, we threw a toprope up on Big Moe. Sweet climb, the moves out the final bulge are especially fun and surprisingly easy for how steep it is. The dyno had me swinging off several times but I managed to do it clean twice. IMO, it's better than Bebop Tango and Jane's Addiction, Jtree's other classic 11a steep face climbs. And such an accessible toprope is a rarity in Josh. Can't imagine leading it though. |
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By reaganchung
Nov 3, 2009
| Hey Bryan. Long time no see. You should add hot rocks to your list. Awesome climb. I just did it today after a top rope to figure out gear and got it on my second red point burn. Fell one time at the crux.
Did Popes crack for the first time as well. That thing was cool.
On my todo list is:
Scary poodles
Leave it to Beaver
Sidewinder
Wangerbanger
O'kelleys
Rubicon
Hidden Arch |
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By reaganchung
Nov 3, 2009
| oh, and i got totally whooped on fisticuffs too. i cant fist jam the top either. |
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By Bryan Gohn
From Irvine, CA
Nov 3, 2009
| Nice dude, Hot Rocks is a strong lead. I've tried it a few times. I think the best I've managed is one fall on toprope, but I'm sure I'll give it another go sometime this winter. |
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By Joe Huggins
Nov 3, 2009
| To do? Get there for the first time in thirteen years...
Stellar classics:
More Monkey than Funky
Desert Song
Illusion Dweller
Grit Roof
Bearded Cabbage(Anchor your belayer)
Spider Line
Left Ski Track
...now my palms are sweatin' |
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