I have red-pointed/on-sighted most of the 3* and 4* 5.9 non-slab climbs in the second edition of Vogel, and am hoping to develop a stronger/firmer 5.9 base as I also move on to start leading 10a’s. The only 2*/1*/no* 5.9’s I have lead are either softer ones: M&M’s Plain, Vorpal Sword, Young Lust; or ones which gave me slight problems when the crack flares (or changes angle): Blood and Cut, Norwegian Wood and Yei Bei Chei Crack (and Looney Tunes, the one 3* 5.9 I have tried leading that I haven’t red-pointed yet). I would be grateful for suggestions for other “solid” (but not heinous) 5.9’s to add to my current tick list of Sphincter Quits and Dummy’s Delight.
Cheers,
Alfred (alfred.kwok@pomona.edu)

Dude, just hop on some .10a's already. If you've onsighted most of the 5.9 you've tried, what makes you think you can't do a .10a? When I was 15, I jumped from 5.8 to 5.10b in a day and never looked back (I bouldered alot though). I think the only thing holding you back is a mental gap, not a physical one.

Go hop on Prepackaged. It used to be rated 5.9, but it's now considered a .10a. Good pro everywhere. Baskerville Right isn't too bad either since the crux is pretty short. If that feels OK, go try Tossed Greens. Not sure if you've done Pope's Crack. Again a 5.9 that a fair number of people consider .10a. Maybe you've already done. If so, you're leading .10a!

touch and go its a good one
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/california/joshua_tree_nati>>>>>

• Pope's Crack

• Touch and Go

• Colorado Crack - I remember this being pretty straightforward climbing

• Boulder Dash - A heady but easy start with no real pro for 20 feet or so leads to a very steep, quality right facing dihedral. Good for getting your head on straight.

• North Overhang - On Intersection Rock, from the alcove of Overhang Bypass, take the left variation out the roof. Good pro, great jams, and awesome exposure on a short pitch.

• Overseer - A very clear crux at the top defines this route. For a cool variation, climb the first part of Dung Fu, then traverse into Overseer over neatly textured rock with interesting and spaced pro.

• No Calculators Allowed - pretty soft for J-tree .10a, and plenty of solid protection makes this a great climb.

• Invisibility Lessons - I remember this being a test for both my partner and I. It seemed pretty stout for 5.9.

Thanks for the replies so far. I haven't had much problems with all the 5.9's (including Prepackaged) suggested so far but I haven't climbed "hard" (for me) in the past 2 years, so I have regressed a little (e.g. had to hang right before starting the roof crack on Overseer, which I onsighted 4 years ago). So, I'm just looking for other "hidden gems" before I jump on Bird on Fire or Tossed Green (I have followed Tossed Green clean once and couldn't even start it another time).

When you get some down time at school, do yourself a favor and head up towards Mt. Baldy. Park at the elementary school and skirt behind it and start hiking down canyon until you see some boulders. You'll see some private property signs but I've never heard of it being enforced.

Those boulders used to be the 'in' spot for John Long, Rick Accomazzo, and some other early Stonemasters. It's really close to you and it's probably the best thing for working on your technique and finger strength that will help you out of your slump. Keep a low profile out of respect to the landowner. A spotter wouldn't hurt either.

Hey Al,
How's it going? We met up at Holcomb Valley this summer.
Here's a few you may not have done:
River Phoenix on Gilligan's Island. I thought this was hard for 5.9.
Fatal Flaw on Tiny Tot's Rock. Rated 5.8 but probably should be 5.9.
Split Personality at Rock Garden Valley.
Just Another Crack From L.A. on Lost Horse Wall Left side.
Penalty Runout on Jimmy Cliff, a dicey lead.
Small World
There must be many more but these are all that come to mind right now. Have fun!
By the way, Bird of Fire and Tossed Green are both great!

High Strung
Damper
Fiendish Fists
Tumbling Rainbow
Middle Peyote
Rust in Peace
Western Saga
Strawberry Jam

All worth doing, I thought.

Try some of these....

http://www.joshuatreeclimb.com/members/Climbs/goodleads.htm

Sphincter Quits
Breakfast of champions
My laundry
Loose Lady
Dazed and Confused
The orphan (Offwidth)
Damper (Offwidth)

Sidewinder... has one 10b move in the beginning (from a broken hold) that's well protected (from what I remember) then it's all 5.9 and less. Definitely a super fun lead (and follow for that matter)

Bird on a wire.

Do it.

besides what's been mentioned so far, loose lady is probably 9+

I'm not gonna re-list what others have said, but Captain Kronos on the Brown wall is worth doing, and if you are willing to walk a bit, Room to Shroom is also excellent. The Exorcist is a good climb to step into 10a territory- well protected with a short crux.

Highstrung.