Does anyone have any suggestions on fun routes at J-Tree for someone that's pretty new to crack climbing? I have lead 5.8 routes on trad, but all pretty much face climbing or chimneys.

Pretty good info....


http://www.mountainproject.com/v/southern_california/joshua_>>>>>

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/southern_california/jtree_5>>>>>

If you're driving in to the park from the Cottonwood entrance, be careful with the speed or you might get tooled. Even way out there where you'd think you're safe.

If you're camping in the park near Bell Campground, Ryan or Hidden Valley the cut through the park is your best choice. If you need groceries, staying at the Pit or otherwise then take the Desert Center 177 cut off to Hwy 62 and enter either via the North or West entrances.

Have fun,
Susan

End of story you can answer your own question by purchasing "the Trad guide to Joshua Tree" 60 favorite climbs from 5.5-5.9

I've done maybe about 1/3 of this book so far and havent found one climb to be anything but exactly what the guide says it is. They're all definitely good/great climbs, and unlike other guides it does a great job of explaining Sun/Shade times and the descent ( super important in jtree if you didnt already know) being a trad guide pretty much all the routes are cracks. I could say this guide book took my from a new 5.7 leader to me pushing into the 5.10's in one winter season of climbing in Jtree. This in conjunction with big guide is never left behind.

Good luck!

Comments on about 1000 JT routes are at:
http://linfieldclimbing.home.comcast.net/~linfieldclimbing/c>>>>>

In the book I'd say some of my favs are Classic Corner, Buissoner, Dappled Mare, False Classic Corner, Double Cross, Eff Eight, but they are all pretty much awesome.

I got harassed for suggesting that Trad Guide on rc.com. I am glad people are more receptive of it here, because it is a great book for beginner trad leaders. I would not recommend the Buissoner, that this is pumpy and a bit sandbagged if you ask me, especially the start.

I would recommend Sail Away, easy 5.8 with perfect hand jams to learn. If you want to break into the 9's, Count On Your Fingers is a good one. More face climbing than anything with tons of pro. Fote Hog was one of my favorites out of that book, it had a bit of everything, face, crack, corner... The stuff at the Dairy Queen Wall is really fun as well. Good luck and have fun, that place is great.

p.s. avoid Mt. Gross Vogel. Its a long walk for some bad climbs. Like 20' of climbing and 100' of walking to get to the top.

Don't forget overhang bypass 5.7, intersection rock.

One of the most accesible and fun routes I've climbed there. Make sure to protect the hand traverse for your partner.

Mental Physics is a fantastic 5.7 plus that felt more like 5.7 minus, with anchors and great pro. A bit of a walk for just one climb but to me it was worth the trip.

The quintessential beginner crack in Jtree is The Bong (5.4) in Hidden Valley Campground. Make sure you can get up that before attempting any of these others.

After that, you could walk out into the south wonderland and climb Mental Physics (5.6), Hex Marks the Poot (5.7, has some OW), and Room to Shroom (5.8-).

And if you make it up all of those then you're ready for my 2 favorite moderate cracks in Jtree: Taken for Granite (5.8-) in Rattlesnake Canyon, and Popular Mechanics (5.9) on the White Cliffs of Dover.