By Devan Johnson Nov 20, 2008
| What are the best 4 star handcracks in Jtree? Any suggestions?
5.10-5.11 preferred. Thanks! |  FLAG |
By Will S Nov 20, 2008
| Wangerbanger, 11c: Cups to hands to thin hands to rings to pod to fingers, on a slightly overhanging wall.
Perpetual Motion, 10d: Thin hands out an alcove to perfect hands on an overhanging wall.
Heart of Darkness, 11a: Easy fingers off the ground to steep thin hands for the upper half, slightly overhanging in top section. Short, but excellent rock, beautiful splitter crack, novel location, and at least as long as fisticuffs.
Big Bob's Big Wedge, 11 hands to 12- wide exit. Not a route, but a 35' boulder problem out a giant roof under a house sized boulder. |  FLAG |
By Ryan Kelly From the gym Nov 20, 2008
| I don't know about 4 star - it's Josh, star ratings seem to be extra subjective here. You'll find a lot of climbs with 20 feet of fun jamming, but a full pitch is a bit of a rarity. And if you're specifically looking for handcracks you're going to have a lot more options in the .9 range than .11
Left Banana Crack (.10) Right Banana Crack (.11-) Illusion Dweller (.10-) kinda sorta handcrack? Room To Shroom (.9) Chemical Warfare (.10) more of a traverse than handcrack Friendly Hands (.10) I think there's 1 handjam in there somewhere Pope's Crack (.9) Dogleg (.8) Crack 6 (.10-) Crack 5 (.9+) Route 1202 (.10-) Light Sabre (.10) Thumbs Down Left (.9) Heh, 4 stars, I swear Invisibility Lessons (.9) Colorado Crack (.9) Popular Mechanics (.9) Ace of Spades (.9) |  FLAG |
By Fat Dad From Los Angeles, CA Nov 20, 2008
| In addition to the others mentioned, keeping in mind that these will have some hand jamming but maybe not all hand jamming.
Touch and Go, 5.9 More Monkey Than Funky, .11b Trashman Roof, 5.9 (wide hands) Left Sawdust Crack, 5.9 Tossed Greens, 5.10a Alice in Wonderjam, 5.9 Broken Glass, .10b
Lots of other crack climbing that probably have some, but I won't bore with my faulty recollection or willfully mislead you.
It's my recollection that O'Kelly's has a fair bit of handjamming leading up to and out of that pod. In any event, I'm sure you'll find plenty to keep you occupied.
Edit: Oh wait, all four stars? Nope, but still fun two to four range). Damn you're picky. |  FLAG |
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From Jackson Hole, WY Nov 21, 2008
| I second "Broken Glass". Zero approach. Excellent hand jamming. A bit rough without tape though.
Combine with Ball Bearings P1 (short hands section, rap off or continue), Illusion Dweller (fingers to hands), Jerry Brown (fingers), Clean and Jerk (hands up top), and Fisticuffs ('nuff said) - for an excellent Real Hidden Valley 5.10 crack tour with zero driving and all a short walk from one another.
And throw in Run For Your Life (face climbing, 10b, 5.9R to first bolt) for well rounded 5.10 Real Hidden Valley experience!
|  FLAG |
By mobley From Haven, Ct Nov 21, 2008
| I dont remember any handcracks that take #2s all the way in Jtree like you would find at Indian creek, just good cracks.
Its not specifically a handcrack but my last visit to the Hemingway Buttress I did the Overseer and it was one of the best 9s ever. I remember the crux required jamming skills.
the lists above are good. |  FLAG |
By Ryan Kelly From the gym Nov 21, 2008
| Andy Laakmann wrote: I second "Broken Glass". Zero approach. Excellent hand jamming. A bit rough without tape though. Combine with Ball Bearings P1 (short hands section, rap off or continue), Illusion Dweller (fingers to hands), Jerry Brown (fingers), Clean and Jerk (hands up top), and Fisticuffs ('nuff said)
While you're doing the RHV crack tour be sure to get on In The Pit, it's right next to broken glass (which, although I think it's s good one to get on, it's a far cry from as good as any of the others mentioned. I don't think you need tape though). Thin hands, and good fun [wicked grin].
Do Solo too, it's right there. |  FLAG |
By Devan Johnson Nov 27, 2008
| All the generous beta made for a killer trip- much appreciated. However, josh isn't really a handcrack mecca, is it? Overall, (for the first time visitor) the Rusty wall (Wangerbanger and O'Kelley's) were about as good as they get with Coarse and Buggy coming in a close second. |  FLAG |
By Ian From Boulder, CO Nov 27, 2008
| Left Ski Track, after you get past the initial crux.
I can't think of other good hand cracks, but if you want fingers, do Rubicon (and Bird of Fire while you are there) and Hot Rocks. I wouldn't pass up bolted climbs either. |  FLAG |
By Ben H Dec 2, 2008
| Unmentioned so far
Hot Rocks 11b/c - has an awesome hand crack in the middle of the route
Hobbit Roof - the crack after the supposed 10d slab move is more like 5.6/7 Such a good hand crack/small fist you can do a flag stand in it.
A Woman's work is never done - short and soft for the grade. Nonetheless it has a really awesome tapering right diagonal crack in it. |  FLAG |
By Michael Ybarra From on the road Dec 3, 2008
| Bender should call himself (?) Sandbagger. The roof crack on Hobbit is rated 10b and is at least 5.9 (not for long, to be sure, but I can't imagine any 5.6/7 leader pulling it). The crack on Women's Work might be soft for the grade (10c) but the crux is leaving the crack and pulling some not so easy face moves. In any event, neither really fit the criteria outlined by the OP. |  FLAG |
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