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Jtree Handcracks

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By Devan Johnson
Nov 20, 2008

What are the best 4 star handcracks in Jtree? Any suggestions?

5.10-5.11 preferred. Thanks!


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By Will S
Nov 20, 2008

Wangerbanger, 11c: Cups to hands to thin hands to rings to pod to fingers, on a slightly overhanging wall.

Perpetual Motion, 10d: Thin hands out an alcove to perfect hands on an overhanging wall.

Heart of Darkness, 11a: Easy fingers off the ground to steep thin hands for the upper half, slightly overhanging in top section. Short, but excellent rock, beautiful splitter crack, novel location, and at least as long as fisticuffs.

Big Bob's Big Wedge, 11 hands to 12- wide exit. Not a route, but a 35' boulder problem out a giant roof under a house sized boulder.


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By Ryan Kelly
From the gym
Nov 20, 2008
My kinda simian

I don't know about 4 star - it's Josh, star ratings seem to be extra subjective here. You'll find a lot of climbs with 20 feet of fun jamming, but a full pitch is a bit of a rarity. And if you're specifically looking for handcracks you're going to have a lot more options in the .9 range than .11

Left Banana Crack (.10)
Right Banana Crack (.11-)
Illusion Dweller (.10-) kinda sorta handcrack?
Room To Shroom (.9)
Chemical Warfare (.10) more of a traverse than handcrack
Friendly Hands (.10) I think there's 1 handjam in there somewhere
Pope's Crack (.9)
Dogleg (.8)
Crack 6 (.10-)
Crack 5 (.9+)
Route 1202 (.10-)
Light Sabre (.10)
Thumbs Down Left (.9) Heh, 4 stars, I swear
Invisibility Lessons (.9)
Colorado Crack (.9)
Popular Mechanics (.9)
Ace of Spades (.9)


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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Nov 20, 2008

In addition to the others mentioned, keeping in mind that these will have some hand jamming but maybe not all hand jamming.

Touch and Go, 5.9
More Monkey Than Funky, .11b
Trashman Roof, 5.9 (wide hands)
Left Sawdust Crack, 5.9
Tossed Greens, 5.10a
Alice in Wonderjam, 5.9
Broken Glass, .10b

Lots of other crack climbing that probably have some, but I won't bore with my faulty recollection or willfully mislead you.

It's my recollection that O'Kelly's has a fair bit of handjamming leading up to and out of that pod. In any event, I'm sure you'll find plenty to keep you occupied.

Edit: Oh wait, all four stars? Nope, but still fun two to four range). Damn you're picky.


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By Devan Johnson
Nov 20, 2008

Holy shit. I'll be busy. Cheers for the beta.


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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From Jackson Hole, WY
Nov 21, 2008
Racked and loaded... name that splitter behind me? Hint, its on Supercrack Buttress

I second "Broken Glass". Zero approach. Excellent hand jamming. A bit rough without tape though.

Combine with Ball Bearings P1 (short hands section, rap off or continue), Illusion Dweller (fingers to hands), Jerry Brown (fingers), Clean and Jerk (hands up top), and Fisticuffs ('nuff said) - for an excellent Real Hidden Valley 5.10 crack tour with zero driving and all a short walk from one another.

And throw in Run For Your Life (face climbing, 10b, 5.9R to first bolt) for well rounded 5.10 Real Hidden Valley experience!


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By mobley
From Haven, Ct
Nov 21, 2008

I dont remember any handcracks that take #2s all the way in Jtree like you would find at Indian creek, just good cracks.

Its not specifically a handcrack but my last visit to the Hemingway Buttress I did the Overseer and it was one of the best 9s ever. I remember the crux required jamming skills.

the lists above are good.


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By Ryan Kelly
From the gym
Nov 21, 2008
My kinda simian

Andy Laakmann wrote:
I second "Broken Glass". Zero approach. Excellent hand jamming. A bit rough without tape though. Combine with Ball Bearings P1 (short hands section, rap off or continue), Illusion Dweller (fingers to hands), Jerry Brown (fingers), Clean and Jerk (hands up top), and Fisticuffs ('nuff said)


While you're doing the RHV crack tour be sure to get on In The Pit, it's right next to broken glass (which, although I think it's s good one to get on, it's a far cry from as good as any of the others mentioned. I don't think you need tape though). Thin hands, and good fun [wicked grin].

Do Solo too, it's right there.


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By Devan Johnson
Nov 27, 2008

All the generous beta made for a killer trip- much appreciated.
However, josh isn't really a handcrack mecca, is it?
Overall, (for the first time visitor) the Rusty wall (Wangerbanger and O'Kelley's) were about as good as they get with Coarse and Buggy coming in a close second.


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By Ian
From Boulder, CO
Nov 27, 2008
Way Rambo

Left Ski Track, after you get past the initial crux.

I can't think of other good hand cracks, but if you want fingers, do Rubicon (and Bird of Fire while you are there) and Hot Rocks. I wouldn't pass up bolted climbs either.


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By Ben H
Dec 2, 2008
Santa Barbara

Unmentioned so far

Hot Rocks 11b/c - has an awesome hand crack in the middle of the route

Hobbit Roof - the crack after the supposed 10d slab move is more like 5.6/7 Such a good hand crack/small fist you can do a flag stand in it.

A Woman's work is never done - short and soft for the grade. Nonetheless it has a really awesome tapering right diagonal crack in it.


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By Michael Ybarra
From on the road
Dec 3, 2008
 Trad gumby tries to go sport on the Lion King, January, 2007

Bender should call himself (?) Sandbagger.
The roof crack on Hobbit is rated 10b and is at least 5.9 (not for long, to be sure, but I can't imagine any 5.6/7 leader pulling it).
The crack on Women's Work might be soft for the grade (10c) but the crux is leaving the crack and pulling some not so easy face moves.
In any event, neither really fit the criteria outlined by the OP.


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