Taking a quick, first trip to j-tree this weekend. Have heard I need to put Illusion Dweller on my short list.

Question...I was told "pro to 3 inch" is recommended. How's the runnout going to be on miscellaneous small gear but limited to two C4 #2s and one #3? Enough? Should I scrounge up some more large stuff?

thanks for the beta - 10b is about my trad limit for a new area...thus the weanie ass beta request =)

thanks.

b.e.

If 10b is your limit you're going to find Illusion Dweller a challenge, it's pretty sustained with a crux right at the top.

Sorry but I'm probably not the guy to advise on gear, last time I did the climb I had Friends 0-4, RockCentrics 3-9, and HB Offsets 7-11.

2 #2 and A #3 will be fine. The climb actually takes med. to large nuts very well. There is a bomber green .75 placement before the final bulge but if the climbing is at your limit you might want some other finger, off finger sized gear. The climb eats gear so you can place as much as you want. The offwidth-ish section is really flaring so you can get smaller gear in the back.

The climb isnt that bad considering there are so many rest stances. Just milk each rest and you will be fine. however the final bulge is the most bouldery part of the route

My memory is that it protects great with small to medium (#2). I placed on #3. There is a wide section in the middle but it is short and you get easy pro above and below it. In general it eats up pro and has good rests so it I think it is a great climb to challenge yourself on at that level. 10b is about my limit and I took a nice airy fall on the crux on a yellow alien (backed up with a green alien ;) You can french the crux if you want and the fall is very clean. Go for it it's an awesome line.

I disagree with the feedback you're getting on relative difficulty - I didn't think Illusion Dweller was tougher than any other routes at the grade, maybe a hair easier. So many good jams, good rests, basically a ledge to stand on from which you can eyeball (and protect) the crux (which is short) before firing it. Don't get intimidated into giving avoiding this lead or giving it to your partner - send it!

Gear: sounds like you'll be a-ok. The crack is all over the place in terms of size, with many textbook nut placements throughout. I had one BD #3 and was not run-out at any point.

I like a challenge... =)

thanks for the great feedback all.

1 set nuts, 1 set cams is probably enough. With "only two #2s, 1 #3 and smaller stuff", you've got enough.

In my opinion, this one is less scary and less "run-out" than other classic .10a and .10b's like Figures on a Landscape, Run For Your Life, and Sidewinder.

Bewarned, depending where you climbed before, Joshua Tree can feel hard for the grade.

Trust the greasy hold over the roof. That's what I remember about the crux. It is a very bouldery move as someone mentioned. Also, it takes all 60+ meters of rope to lower off because of how you've sewn it up.

Adam,
why would one ever want to lower off ID instead of belaying from the top on the super comfy ledge, taking in the view, and feeling smug about oneself?
Cheers

i dont know why anyone would want to lower off. however, last time i was up there me and my buddy almost froze to death while waiting for the third to handdog his way up. We were really exposed to the wind up there but its just part of the experience.

I onsighted illusion dweller when 5.9 was my trad limit. So, don't be intimidated, it's not too bad. I don't remember the gear beta, but I think you may be happy with one more #2.

Have fun, it's one of my favorite climbs of all time.

Eric

If it's yr first trip to JTree, remember that the climbing is not like many other granite areas, the rock is highly variable, and the routes are short, so you are always looking at a decker. Sew up your leads.

ID is a longish (by Tree standards) 5.9 crack to a hands-down alcove below a bulge. The bulge is the crux-- a short lie-back boulder problem. The alcove has a 11/8" parallel slot-- A1 placement for an old-skool 1.5 Friend. The crack above takes smallish stoppers-- back up your cam with a high piece. A buddy of mine placed his Friend too shallow in the slot and then didn't place a stopper at all. He popped, the edge broke off the slot, the cam pulled, and he got big air almost all the way the the deck.

While you're over there, do Broken Glass (10b, shorter, better rock) and hang a TR on In the Pit (10c thin hands).

Broken Glass is cool... not sure why more people don't do it.

And Ball Bearing is a great two pitch climb nearby. The first pitch is the best (5.10a), and you can rap from anchors atop it if you don't feel like continuing. The 2nd pitch is a little creepy, as it involves an awkward ramp, but it is still good.

It's called Broken Glass for a reason, but it's not that bad of a climb.

I have to agree with most of the other assessments of ID. It's tricky but not that bad. I've climbed out there since I was 13 (I'm 44 now) and I don't ever remember it having a 5.9 rating. In fact, it used to have a .10c rating for years probably, as everyone has said, because of the bouldery nature of the crux.

I say give it a proud shot. DON'T lower off. There's a great view from up top and, let's face it, it's not a sport climb.

While you're in the neighborhood, you should jump on Run for Your Life (.10b), easily one of the best in the monument and not as dicey as everyone makes it sound. Sphincter Quits, on the other side of Hidden Valley (5.9/10a) is fun too.

ID is a fine climb! Have fun, send it, and be sure to sit on the top.
I use a lot of stoppers on all JT climbs, the cracks have lot's of variations and squeeze spots that make for bomber pro. I second the props for Sphincter Quits, bring #1,#2 stoppers you will need em. And when in that part of the world I like to do Clean and Jerk (10b). Nice moves in a great crack.