I'm looking for a good route to practice solo aiding on. Something fairly straightforward (C1 to C2-) with little to no free climbing. I was looking at the Pirate, but I don't have any RPs. I haven't really thought about aiding lines out at Tahquitz or Suicide before so no good ones are coming to mind. This will be tomorrow, so something that doesn't see free traffic would be best.

Is Tahquitz even open again since there was that fire last weekend?

Any good suggestions. I've been soloing this overhanging bolt ladder that's close to home, but I'm looking to practice for a solo of the West Face of Leaning Tower so overhanging would be cool.

Can't do anything at J-tree, cause I want to bring my dog.

thanks for any suggestions.

-jordan

How about Forest Lawn (A2) on Suicide? Not sure if it goes clean or, given your gear limitations, whether it'll work for you.

If you're training to solo an aid wall, don't worry so much about the steepness. Focus more on getting your system down. Way more important.

Forest lawn definately looks cool, but I'm not a pin guy (yet). Any other ideas? I feel like I've got my systems fairly dialed, I just want to get more practice practice practice in before heading out in june.

I found this out by Stoney Point instead. Didn't get a chance to do it yet though. Hopefully soon. It looks exciting. It goes straight up the slab at 5.8+ A0 or on the side at 5.6-7ish and then traverses out to the bottom of the overhang. P2 is straight up and through the roof on old bolts.

The rock at stoney alone is exciting yet alone aiding :)
Where is that exactly?

I cannot tell from the photo.

wow fast. I was just re-editing the post for clarity. It's at Rocky Peak about 3 miles from Stoney Point. You can even see Stoney from here. Here's a link through which i found the route:
http://www.bigwall.com/scag_lac.html

The rock on this particular cliff seems very solid for Santa Susana Sandstone. There are tons of big boulders everywhere as well that would clean up into an awesome bouldering spot as well, much larger than Stoney Point proper.

here's another pic of a crazy form I found out there.

Nice,
I'll have to go check out those boulders next trip home ;)
Stoney has gotten repetative.
Cheers
js

Another place that's not a bad place to practice is Mt. Rubidoux in Riverside. At the top of the mountain there's a huge cross, beneath which are a few OLD bolt ladders and mixed bolt and aid climbs. Back in the day I spent a decent amount of time there getting comfortable in my aiders.

Keep in mind, however, that some of those bolts, unless they've been replaced, looked old when I started climbing there thirty years ago. Despite that, they'll probably be in better shape than any old bolt ladder you'd find near Stoney.

First...go by some RP's, offsets, and anything else you need to do C-
Aid. Forget about bolt ladders. Necessary evil but it ain't aid climbing. Go French-Free some long routes(Lost Arrow, etc)and get your systems dialed. Really, it's all about efficient systems and trusting shaky gear. Training on bolt ladders will equal dirty-drawers on the West Face.

protip: one of your regular partners has a full set of offsets (and pins, and heads) which you can use if you don't fix 'em

I would never dream of fixing any heads ;)

Thanks though Tim. Once it's dry we gotta hit that chosspile roof!

I've never been out to the Quarry. I thought it was all face climbing. Are there good cracks or old aid lines as well?

I havent been out there yet, but I have the book for it and from the looks of it there are a quite a few aid lines. I am heading out there on wednesday, I will let you know.

-Nate