By Marc Kajut Administrator Jan 25, 2007
| Quoted from an email written by David Baker:
"I was out at Mission Gorge today and yesterday and there are more routes that have had bolts chopped and mangled [...] two bolts on Suzie Wild Ride have been flattened and made unusable. These bolts however still remain on the rock and are unsitely. Unless someone has a good reason as to why they have hurt these great routes I will replace the bolts. Can you forward this E-Mail onward. If there are any other routes that have been damaged [...]"
It's a sad, sad day when individuals start destroying well established quality climbs in one of San Diego's oldest and most prominent climbing areas. Hopefully the smashing of several bolts on SWR and the removal of several bolts on other climbs in MG are unrelated, isolated events. If you climb in MG please report any bolt smashing or removal so action can be taken to repair the routes and prevent any injuries to climbers, since MG is very popular with new as well as seasoned climbers.
Regards, Marc |  |
By Chris Miller Administrator Jan 25, 2007
| Bummer...maybe Art Messier's wicked ways have started to catch up with him? Funny how he bolted all those sport routes at Mission Gorge and then chopped all those sport routes at El Cajon Mt.. |  |
By Marc Kajut Administrator Jan 26, 2007
| Unfortunately such actions only really hurt the local climbing community and not Messier himself. I would hope that no one would choose to mimic his behavior, especially seeing how most affected parties viewed his actions as ugly and absurd. |  |
By Ryan Huetter From Toyota Tacoma Jan 26, 2007
| Marc, You say Suzie's Wild Ride just got chopped, or smashed in this case? What other MG climbs have seen the same fate recently? And I just had a look at the Kennedy guidebook and it seems that none other than Art Messier himself is claiming the FA of the line. Is he now resorting to destroying his own work or are we starting to see retaliation from the people who have had their own routes chopped by him? I am new to this area but would love to get out with some of the more, um, ethical climbers around, and am interested in getting out and helping keep these routes in good shape. While not destination climbing these routes are certainly fun and varied and are worthwhile. Ryan |  |
By Matthew F Jan 26, 2007
| I found one bolt (possibly two) chopped on "Trivial Pursuit," about 30 feet right of SWR. I think it was done early morning Thursday, November 23rd. Even found the chopped bolt and washer at the bottom of the climb.
This is probably old information, but "Urge to Merge," 5.10a on El Capitan Mountain was found chopped also, all 8 bolts.
We ran into the alleged local culprit on the hike up to El Cap Mountain two weeks ago. Just like everything I've read, he was hiding in the bushes spying on everyone coming up the trail.
This very well could be him, but smashing bolts doesn't sound like his usual M.O. Sounds like someone else to me.
Side Note: Also, Please visit the Cleveland National Forest website and respond to the proposed closures of Corte Madera, Eagle Peak, Rock Peak, etc... Emails should be sent to Kristin Winters, USFS. See their website for more information. |  |
By mschlocker From San Diego, CA Jan 27, 2007
| This kind of behavior is unacceptable. I do not care what your motives are, please do not destroy established routes that have been enjoyed by many for years. This kind of thing only seems to perpetuate itself. Be warned, if you get caught doing something like this there are pelnty of local climbers who will have far less restraint than I might when it comes to your personal safety.
If you want to replace them, please so so only if you know what you are doing and try as hard as possible to use the original hole. |  |
By david baker From jamul, ca Jan 28, 2007
| The first bolt on risky business is also missing. Additionally, there was a bolt that was used for a variation of caterpiller that is gone. I do not know who is doing this and I do not care but please stop. The only people you hurt is the person that falls and decks due to your behavior. It also hurts the rock and its lame. David Baker |  |
By mark winslow From alpine, ca Feb 5, 2007
| evidently art has made it down to the underworld to get at a few anchors down there as well...be advised, its not impossible to build an anchor around there but it makes it inconvient at best. |  |
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