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Southern Sierra

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Balloon Dome 
Courtright Reservoir 
Domelands 
Fish Creek near Kennedy Meadows 
Fresno Dome (Wamello) 
Needles / Kern River, The 
Rancheria Falls - Ice Climb 
Rise Again Rock 
Shaver Lake Bouldering 
Shuteye Ridge 
Squarenail 
Tollhouse Rock 
Upper Jackass Lake 
Wilderness Wall 
Yeti Dome (aka Musick Mountain) 
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Goodmill
Low tech, rolling trail with great downhills and a few 'pop' climbs. Fun! Near Squaw Valley, California
Millwood to Chicago Stump and Park Ridge Loop
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Abbot Creek Road
At first easy, then moderatate, then a challenging climb from the Millwood parking lot to 4 Corners. Near Squaw Valley, California
Park Ridge Loop
A fun, challenging loop with great, long vistas. Near Squaw Valley, California
Skyline in Three Rivers
A little known mountain biking gem in the Central California foothills. Near Three Rivers, California
Cannell Trail
This epic Southern California jewel is a true trek that you won't easily forget. Near Kernville, California
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Southern Sierra Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 36.5096, -118.5356 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 218,019
Administrators: M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: M.Morley on Apr 11, 2011
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You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Description 

The Sierra Nevada covers a huge geographical area. Dividing this into Southern and Northern regions is an attempt to create a more logical, manageable, and hopefully user-friendly structure. The Sonora Pass Highway (108) area is used as a boundary between Southern and Northern regions.

For information about the Eastern Sierra (Bishop, Mammoth, etc), refer to the Sierra Eastside section of the site.

For information about alpine routes including Charlotte Dome, please refer to the High Sierra section of the site.

The National Parks have their own dedicated sections. See Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP and Yosemite National Park.

Getting There 

Tollhouse Rock, Courtright Reservoir, Yeti Dome (aka Musick Mountain) and Wilderness Wall are approached via Hwy 168 out of Fresno.

Fresno Dome (Wamello) is accessed from Hwy 41 out of Oakhurst.

Kings Canyon and Moro Rock (SEKI) are accessed by vehicle either from Hwy 180 from the northwest via Fresno, or by Hwy 198 from the southwest via Three Rivers.

Climbing Season



Weather station 12.2 miles from here

415 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',61],['3 Stars',186],['2 Stars',126],['1 Star',33],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',21],['5.7',45],['5.8',51],['5.9',59],['5.10',134],['5.11',55],['5.12',14],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',4],['V2-3',11],['V4-5',11],['V6-7',7],['V8-9',2],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Southern Sierra

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Southern Sierra:
Tollhouse Traverse   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 4 pitches, 600'   Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock
Tree Route   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock
Afternoon Nap   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 900'   Shuteye Ridge : Big Sleep
White Punks on Dope   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 6 pitches   The Needles : Voodoo Dome
Spooky   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 175'   The Needles : The Charlatan
Moonlight Madness   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 5 pitches, 900'   Shuteye Ridge : Big Sleep
Igor Unchained   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches   The Needles : The Witch
Airy Interlude   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches   The Needles : The Witch
Anti-Jello Crack   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 550'   The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock
Thin Ice   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches   The Needles : The Sorcerer
Fancy Free   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches   The Needles : The Charlatan
Tobin's Dihedral   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 380'   The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock
Spook Book   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R     Trad, 4 pitches   The Needles : The Witch
The Don Juan Wall   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 5 pitches   The Needles : The Sorcerer
Ankles Away   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 230'   The Needles : The Witch
The Emperor aka Pea Soup   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 105'   The Needles : Voodoo Dome
Atlantis   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   The Needles : The Sorcerer
Scirocco   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   The Needles : The Sorcerer
Romantic Warrior   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, 9 pitches   The Needles : The Warlock
Pyromania   5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   The Needles : The Sorcerer
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Southern Sierra

Featured Route For Southern Sierra
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Arechiga on, Little Kala. 5.11b, High Eagle D...

Little Kala 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  CA : Southern Sierra : ... : Main Wall - Lower Left
This route follows an obvious shallow dihedral up the middle of the wall. Start with a pull over a roof and a small traverse to get into the diehdral. Stem up, with occasional fingerlocks past bolts. Follow the flaring crack to the left and then up the face past a tricky crux. More face climbing leads to the anchor. Good for breaking into the grade with quality climbing throughout....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Southern Sierra Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Domes. Photo by Blitzo.
Domes. Photo by Blitzo.

Comments on Southern Sierra Add Comment
Show which comments
By Herb Laeger
Jun 19, 2016
A new guidebook (June 2016) is available for Kern Slabs and New Directions Cliffs at kernvalleyclimbs.com featuring approximately 100 climbs
By Sean P. Sullivan
From: Morro Bay, California
Aug 19, 2016
Does anyone know of any recorded climbs up Dogtooth peak in the Dinky Lakes area? Besides summit climbs?

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