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Mount Huntington
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Brother Laurence T 
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Once is Enough T 
Perennial T,S 
Southern Migration T 
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Southern Migration 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 600', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Chuck Woodman, Jack Dorsey
Page Views: 1,194
Submitted By: Bill Keiler on May 28, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Me climbing up the third pitch (the money pitch of...

Description 

Pitch 1: Scramble up the low angle slab til beneath a steeper bulge. A couple bolts and a small cam lead over bulge (crux, 5.9). Continue past a couple more bolts to a stance and two bolt anchor. 5.9 170'

Variation - Clip the first two bolts of the regular first pitch, then go left to a flake. Continue up on easy slab to a two bolt anchor left of bushes. Going this way avoids the crux bulge. 5.6 170'

Variation Pitch 2: Continue straight up a clean strip past a bolt, and then another (which is now a 2 bolt set-up), then merge right with the regular P2. 5.6 180'

Pitch 2: Easy slab climbing leads up past a couple bolts. Below bushes, head up and right (piton) past a couple overlaps (2nd piton, driven up-side-down) to a double bolt anchor below a steep wall. 5.6 180'

Pitch 3: Angle left on a slab, then head straight up the steep face. Positive holds, ample protection (including a couple of bolts), and interesting moves make for a spectacular pitch. Near the top of the wall, head right, then claw up 15' of fir branches to a tree anchor. Ignore an orange sling on a tree up and right. Off route. 150' 5.7


Pitch 4: Walk left 15', then climb up to a broken corner in a steep wall. Continue up past a bolt, make a difficult mantle, then head up and left to a smooth slab. Climb up and left past bolts, then go straight up to a belay next to the trees. 5.7 130'

Pitch 5: Scramble left along a ramp, then right past a small tree to a bolt in a slab. Continue up past bushes on easy rock til below the final steeper slab. Angle right past a couple bolts to an anchor at the top. 5.7 120'

Location 

starts at the bottom toe of the cliff.

Protection 

the second pitch is pretty loose in some spots and the gear is less than desirable. However, it is a great alpine pitch. The second pitch of Perennial is a much better alternative.


Photos of Southern Migration Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bradley White leading the second pitch of Southern...
Bradley White leading the second pitch of Southern...
Rock Climbing Photo: At the top! (end P5)
BETA PHOTO: At the top! (end P5)
Rock Climbing Photo: Another photo of my climbing the third pitch (mone...
Another photo of my climbing the third pitch (mone...
Rock Climbing Photo: More Nice Views! Mt Sandwich (thru Greely Notch) a...
More Nice Views! Mt Sandwich (thru Greely Notch) a...
Rock Climbing Photo: At P1 Belay of "5.6 Variation"
BETA PHOTO: At P1 Belay of "5.6 Variation"
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 4
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 4
Rock Climbing Photo: On P1 of "5.6 Variation"
BETA PHOTO: On P1 of "5.6 Variation"
Rock Climbing Photo: Nice Views !  The Kanc from top of P4
Nice Views ! The Kanc from top of P4
Rock Climbing Photo: Headed up P3 (back on "mainline" route)[...
BETA PHOTO: Headed up P3 (back on "mainline" route)[...
Rock Climbing Photo: Blow-Up of P3 area
BETA PHOTO: Blow-Up of P3 area

Comments on Southern Migration Add Comment
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By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Oct 10, 2011

Cool route; it makes for a great day of adventure climbing. I got impatient trying to figure out the move up the 5.9 slabby bulge and french freed through that one crux move. Some of the belay ledges were a little uncomfortable (namely the last two pitches) as they were almost hanging belays, but this route is surely the prime feature for moderate grade climbing on this cliff. I have been looking at it from the Kanc since I was a teenager wondering if it has been climbed. Thanks for bolting.




Pagan bolt hangers huh? Do they have anything to do with Pagan Mountaineering out of Moab, Utah??





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By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Oct 10, 2011

By the way, only a very light rack if any is necessary. We only placed a green .75 Camelot, a red 1 Camelot, a pink tricam, and a red or yellow Alien (I can't remember which one). These were more than sufficient for the climb although even with the bolts and pro, be prepared for some nice run-outs.
By Robert Hall
Administrator
Jun 2, 2016

Not mentioned was that P4 and P5 can be rapped with a single 60m rope(ours was 62m long), so if you're trailing a 2nd rope it could be left on the large tree ledge at the end of P3. Also, on rapping the 2nd last rap, we went to rappeller's right to the (more comfortable) double bolt anchor there instead of the semi-hanging belay/rap on So. Migration itself.

This may be the longest climb in NH (if not New England) where there's no walk-off from the top and you pretty much have to rap off. (Yes, I know Bradley White, and others after soloing, have crashed down through the woods; but rapping is probably both safer and faster.)

When we did this route today via the "5.6 Variation", both I and my partner thought most pitches' ratings were a bit too low. But maybe that's just us..."plain Jane 5.8-5.9 climbers"...or maybe we didn't "hit" the easiest line.
For what it's worth, here's out thoughts...
P1 ("5.6 Var") 5.7+/5.8 PG-13/R
P2 ("5.6 Var") 5.7 R (Near the merge, we weren't sure whether to take the steep dirt-and-grass ramp up right to where a #1 Camalot could be placed under a downward jutting flake and then climb straight up on friction, or to climb green-lichened rock, below and 20-25 ft left of this and then move right to the "overlaps". I chose the latter (5.6-5.7R) while my partner the former (about 5.6-5.7).
P3 5.8 / 5.8+ PG/R (we thought it at least as hard as, for example, Cathedral's "Still in Saigon" and/or "Bombardment", but may have been too far left at the crux "headwall"...we climbed left and up the thin crack. )
P4 5.7+R (didn't find the "difficult mantel", maybe it was the "stretch to the flake" ?)
P5 5.8 / 5.8+ with crux virtually the last move of the climb. Very thankful for the 2 bolts on the final slab.

As for previous climber's comments - the belay at the end of P4 is really quite comfortable...maybe it's been moved slightly since 2011, although the top belay is an uncomfortable "nearly hanging" belay.

And another "THANKS !" to whomever spent the time and money to bolt the line.

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