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 ADVANCED
Mount Huntington
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Brother Laurence T 
no name T 
Once is Enough T 
Perennial T,S 
Southern Migration T 
unnamed T 

Southern Migration 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 600', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Chuck Woodman, Jack Dorsey
Page Views: 696
Submitted By: Bill Keiler on May 28, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Bradley White leading the second pitch of Southern...

Description 

Pitch 1: Scramble up the low angle slab til beneath a steeper bulge. A couple bolts and a small cam lead over bulge (crux, 5.9). Continue past a couple more bolts to a stance and two bolt anchor. 5.9 170'

Variation - Clip the first two bolts of the regular first pitch, then go left to a flake. Continue up on easy slab to a two bolt anchor left of bushes. Going this way avoids the crux bulge. 5.6 170'

Pitch 2: Easy slab climbing leads up past a couple bolts. Below bushes, head up and right past a couple overlaps to an anchor below a steep wall. 5.6 180'

Pitch 3: Angle left on a slab, then head straight up the steep face. Positive holds, ample protection (including a couple of bolts), and interesting moves make for a spectacular pitch. Near the top of the wall, head right, then claw up 15' of fir branches to a tree anchor. Ignore an orange sling on a tree up and right. Off route. 150' 5.7

Variation: Continue straight up a clean strip past two bolts, then merge right with regular P2. 5.6 180'

Pitch 4: Walk left 15', then climb up to a broken corner in a steep wall. Continue up past a bolt, make a difficult mantle, then head up and left to a smooth slab. Climb up and left past bolts, then go straight up to a belay next to the trees. 5.7 130'

Pitch 5: Scramble left along a ramp, then right past a small tree to a bolt in a slab. Continue up past bushes on easy rock til below the final steeper slab. Angle right past a couple bolts to an anchor at the top. 5.7 120'

Location 

starts at the bottom toe of the cliff.

Protection 

the second pitch is pretty loose in some spots and the gear is less than desirable. However, it is a great alpine pitch. The second pitch of Perennial is a much better alternative.


Photos of Southern Migration Slideshow Add Photo
Me climbing up the third pitch (the money pitch of...
Me climbing up the third pitch (the money pitch of...
Another photo of my climbing the third pitch (mone...
Another photo of my climbing the third pitch (mone...

Comments on Southern Migration Add Comment
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By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Oct 10, 2011

Cool route; it makes for a great day of adventure climbing. I got impatient trying to figure out the move up the 5.9 slabby bulge and french freed through that one crux move. Some of the belay ledges were a little uncomfortable (namely the last two pitches) as they were almost hanging belays, but this route is surely the prime feature for moderate grade climbing on this cliff. I have been looking at it from the Kanc since I was a teenager wondering if it has been climbed. Thanks for bolting.




Pagan bolt hangers huh? Do they have anything to do with Pagan Mountaineering out of Moab, Utah??





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By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Oct 10, 2011

By the way, only a very light rack if any is necessary. We only placed a green .75 Camelot, a red 1 Camelot, a pink tricam, and a red or yellow Alien (I can't remember which one). These were more than sufficient for the climb although even with the bolts and pro, be prepared for some nice run-outs.