Southern Man 5.10a A1-2
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 8 pitches, 800 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.10a A1-2 [details] |
| FA: | Francis Ross, Rich Albushkat 1992 |
| Season: | year round |
| Submitted By: | Adam on Dec 24, 2006 |
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This route heads left from Dinner Ledge. It's a bolt line that starts on a little pedestal with one bat hook move and a few funky hooks up higher. That's the 4th pitch (which we made a long one). The next pitch is funky. You head up and get on the S. Face route for about 14' then you swing left to a seam, then up and left again. I know that this has been done C2-3 (maybe free?), but back when we did it we used pins. One fixed head on this pitch. Above you follow cracks and corners up parallel to the S. Face route to the rim. Pitch 7 has another swing on it I killed my self with rope drag, so use long runners. pitch 8 has one hard section, then it's not so bad to the rim for 2 more pitches. It took me 2 tries to get up this route, great climbing.
If you're a fast team and want to pass other teams off Dinner Ledge, the first 2 pitches of Southern Man will get you to the top of the 6th pitch on the S. Face route.
Location Head up the first 3 pitches of S. Face, then go left. Can't miss the start. Getting down: Walk the death slabs.
Protection Aid rack. We used thin pins but with all the new toys you can do it clean. I recall trad belays with 2 bolted, but could be wrong about that. Some fixed heads.
By outdooreric
From: Lyons, CO
Apr 1, 2007
| Once on Southern Man proper, the belays are indeed all natural with the exception of 4 and 7. Pitch 8 has one bolt to supplement the gear.
Pitch 4 and 5 can be linked with a 60 meter rope if belaying from from the pedestal above Dinner Ledge. From a little above pitch 9, there is a rappel from a tree that can be used to get onto the South Face route if retreat is necessary or you just don't want to go to the top. There are a few crucial fixed heads. A hammer, some heads and a few thin pins are recommended. |
By Greg DeMatteo
From: W. Lebanon, NH
Mar 16, 2008
| I remember there being some surprisingly tricky spots for the grade, and the natural anchors add an interesting element. |
By Jordan Ramey
From: Calgary, Alberta
Feb 20, 2009
| Grade II? Now that's optimistic! |
By Osprey
From: ...
May 3, 2010
| I felt the trickiest part was the pendulum off the South Face route. It was just a little tricky to get established back on the line after the pendulum.
This route is well worth the effort! Some great opportunities to work off of your top step on this line. |
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