This route is an underrated gem overshadowed by its famous neighbor Crooked Cross. The climb is good, and by the standards of the new SSV book, is worthy of two stars. There is good variety, a tricky roof section, and finger jams to hand crack. This is normally broken into two pitches, but it could be done as one long one if slings are used prudently.
Climb the first pitch of Crooked Cross, but head right to the obvious, west-facing finger to hand crack that passes a small roof early on.
Standard rack including 0.5-3" cams. The sling wad belay mentioned in Gillett's book is now gone.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 7, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I and my partner both thought it odd that this got 1* and Crooked got 3* in the Gillett book. They are not so different in quality. The rock and moves on the top part of this are just as good.
For the best experience, do this one early in the AM (shade), and do it as a single pitch to the top in 50m.