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Nose Area
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Southern Crescent 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 350'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Whitney Huermann/ Peter White 90's
Season: any
Page Views: 705
Submitted By: chummer on Aug 22, 2010

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Description 

Southern Crescent is for the eyebrow aficionado. Don't hop on this one until you've mastered Hyperbola, Chaos Out of Control, and any other "well protected" 5.10 at the Glass that you can think of. Not as consequential as the "Bomb Flake" but more serious than your average Glass route. Southern Crescent deserves traffic and has some fun and challenging climbing.


Location 

This route is located left of Hyperbola and right of Sundial Crack. Locate the obvious steep bulge with a few bolts. Start up the mostly unprotected face (5.8+) to a bolt. Traverse left and pull the steep and off balance moves over the bulge. Belay.

The 2nd pitch has a significant runout off the belay (5.9+). Clip a couple bolts and pull the no hands stand up move.

Protection 

Your typical Glass route. For sure small Tri-cams.

Maybe traverse to the Nose rap route.


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By Eric Foster
Mar 24, 2015
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R

1st pitch was great climbing, there are 3 placements between the first bolt to 60ish feet or so. I was surprised that it was a little dirty but its probably still early in the season and hasn't seen much traffic all winter. 2nd pitch didn't seem like it had any traffic as there was lots of dirt and lichen covering the eyebrows. Looks like most people only do the first pitch and then rappel the rings.
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