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Turkey Rock
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Southern Comfort 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,783
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 4, 2002

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At the top of the crack on the second pitch and ab...

Description 

This great route is located on the south face of Turkey Rock. It offers a wide range of climbing from finger cracks to chickenhead covered slabs. Every pitch is good quality and unique.

From the draw between Turkey Perch and Turkey Rock, walk along the base of Turkey Rock past Turkey Shoot (5.9-) and up the hill past Gobbler's Grunt towards the South shoulder of the formation. Rope up on a ledge below a splitter 5.9 finger crack on the left and a wide 5.7 corner crack on the right. The finger crack is obvious.

Pitch 1: Do a quick boulder move up to the next ledge and follow a sustained and steep finger crack up through the face via locks and jams past a small overlap to another small ledge. Continue up 10 more feet of easier climbing to a fixed anchor at a slung chockstone. 75 ft. 5.9 splitter. Variation: climb corner on the right to just below the roof on pitch two. 5.7.

Pitch 2: Move right 15 feet on face holds towards a small roof and pass it on the right via a fun 5.8 hand crack in the corner. Follow this crack up and right until it peters out. Begin to face climb and traverse up and right on good holds (5.7) until your reach a left-facing, corner system and belay at a comfortable stance above. This pitch requires good use of runners, it can be broken into two if needed. The face climbing is a tad bit run-out but on positive holds. 170 ft, 5.8, varied and enjoyable. Variation: 5.9S or 10bVS.

Pitch 3: Face climb straight up on big holds slinging chickenheads for pro to a small bulge with a crack in it. Cross the bulge and continue up easy slabs to the summit belay. 75 ft. 5.7 short and sweet.

Descent: Walk off climber's right.

Bryson Slothower

Protection 

Gear up to 3" extra finger and hand size, a few long runners and a 60 meter rope.


Photos of Southern Comfort Slideshow Add Photo
Starting the first pitch of splitter fingers - nic...
Starting the first pitch of splitter fingers - nic...
Topping out on P2 of Southern Comfort in between M...
Topping out on P2 of Southern Comfort in between M...
Starting the last pitch.
Starting the last pitch.
First pitch of Southern Comfort is the nice finger...
BETA PHOTO: First pitch of Southern Comfort is the nice finger...
The first belay.
The first belay.
The upper pitches of Southern Comfort.
BETA PHOTO: The upper pitches of Southern Comfort.
Midway across the traverse on pitch two.
Midway across the traverse on pitch two.
Finishing the first pitch crack.
Finishing the first pitch crack.
The second pitch. Climbing the crack after travers...
BETA PHOTO: The second pitch. Climbing the crack after travers...

Comments on Southern Comfort Add Comment
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By shad O'Neel
Aug 6, 2003

What a fine climb. Reminicent of [Cochise Stronghold] for sure. [The] second pitch has some airy moves on the two traverses. Three stars for sure, and not an easy 5.9.
By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
May 26, 2004

First pitch finger crack was very hard for us, but isn't a hairy lead since nuts fit in everywhere. You can set up a toprope and work on your technique, the rope won't get in the way since the anchor is off to the side. Both my partner and I struggled with the feet and with finding good locks for the first thirty feet or so. Great place to practice.

As for the rest of the climb, it's great as well. The pro is there, except for the traverses which are brief. More fun on lead, I think, but when is that not true?
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
May 23, 2009

The last pitch is the same as for Gobbler's Grunt, accept you bypass the belay for the start. The 5.8 hand crack at the start of pitch two widens up to chicken wing size right after you get in it, incidentally. The traverse after that is pretty wild!
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
May 6, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The first pitch crack is described as a "finger crack", but it is hand sized in several spots. It will take several #2 Camalots and a #3 near the top. The pitch two traverse is easier than it looks, but I only found one decent piece of gear about 1/3 of the way across it.
By Moritz B.
Apr 14, 2014

Here is some extra beta for the second pitch:
There were no fixed slings when we did this climb. Instead, build your own anchor on a little ledge. We slung a boulder and protected it from upward force by having it pulled down with a #2. From here, you start the airy traverse underneath the roof. Halfway through you get to place a #3. When you reach the 5.8 crack, you get another piece in. Head up this handcrack, and when it vanishes, head up and right and join the second pitch of Goblerīs Grunt. Have fun, itīs awesome!