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Leaning Tower, The
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Eastern Face 
Old Bolt Route 
Southeastern Arete 
Southern Face 

Southeastern Arete 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,548
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Oct 4, 2002
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Description 

Climb the juggy arete on the initially overhung southeast corner of the rock. A great pumpy route, with holds appearing as the route progresses. There is also a great undercling just before the final roof, though the route can be finished either by climbing around the final bulge to the left, or around it to the right.

A trad fall will drop you a fair ways down into a bush if you fall before your first placement. This is also the toughest part of the route, so don't fall.


Protection 

Small to large friends (small to 3").

To set up a top rope, bring a long sling (30'+). You could also use larger friends (up to 4") to create a suitable anchor in the cracks above



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By Jennifer H
Apr 22, 2009

I set a top rope on this route by threading some webbing (2 15' foot pieces of webbing) through a small tunnel in the rock at the top. There were a few different spots you could choose to thread. We had to downclimb each time on the 5.4 (or there's another, equally easy route straight down the center) to avoid too much friction on the rope.

The views are spectacular!

By Riley McDonald
Dec 28, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a R

Gear:
sling/.75 c4 at first horn/jug halfway up
.5 c4 under the roof (extend w/ 120cm sling) right before topping out
Long sling or #2 and #4/5 c4's for the anchor.