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 ADVANCED
Southeast

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9 Wall (Feather Ledges) 
Chatfield Hollow Main Wall 
Grey Matter Area, The 
High Ledge 
Lantern Hill 
Madison Land Conservation: Indian Rock Caves 
Mystic Areas 
Pad Crag 

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Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Rocky Point State Park - Main Loop
A fun loop around the state park with varied terrain. Lots of long and flat singletrack. Near Setauket-East Setauket, NY
Thunderdome
Intermediate singletrack with plenty of additional features. Near Middletown, CT
Rockland Preserve
The blue arrow loop through the Singletracks of Rockland. Near Durham, CT
Rockland Preserve Tour
A tour of the singletrack along the Rockland recommended blue arrow route. Near Middletown, CT
Day Pond Singletrack
A complete all-mountain singletrack loop showcasing many features. Near East Hampton, CT
Bob's Trail
Flowing, twisting singletrack up and down the rocky ridge. Near Hebron, CT
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Southeast 


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Location: 41.3649, -72.5848 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 68,494
Administrators: Morgan Patterson, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Echoinfi on Dec 10, 2007
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Amazing

Description 

Welcome to Connecticut's Riviera. The Southeastern region is home to Connecticut's oldest towns that lie along the scenic center shore fronts of Long Island Sound and the Connecticut River.

Like its French and Italian cousins, east of the city of New Haven, the shoreline changes and turns to a landscape of small towns, villages, and beautiful inland farms. Some of the towns are plain every day Americana, but many are beautiful, graceful, historic and delightful like Killingworth, Madison, Guilford, Stonington, and Mystic.

What makes this place unique are the waters of Long Island Sound and the Connecticut River, their benign moderating influence on the climate makes the Connecticut shoreline a good place for vineyards and wineries and for sunny snow free winter days of crisp bouldering or climbing on some of America's best metaphoric gneiss.

Hammonasset Beach State Park in Madison has a fine long sand beach on Long Island Sound that is a favorite retreat on a rest day or for a simple afternoon of shoreline bouldering.

Some of the best areas include Westwoods, Chatfield, the Nehantic State Forest, and the Groton/Mystic areas. Although the cliffs and boulders tend to be small, you will find some of Connecticut's best climbs and boulder problems in this region. All styles exist here from physical 5.13 sport routes on 1/2" glue-ins, to mixed routes, traditionally protected splitter cracks of all grades, to radically overhanging boulder roof problems. The attitude is distinctly that of a progressive New England seaport town: cultured, traveled, global, and Yankee.

Groton is famous for it war submarine industry and ships that have sailed and protected every ocean in the world. Mystic was a famous seaport in colonial and early American times because of its international ship building industry, and it is now famous for the Mystic Seaport museum. There are many boulders in this region that are remains of the last ice age 18,000 years ago in the surrounding forests.

A few miles to the north on the tribal reservations of the Mohegan and Mashantucket Pequot peoples are the massive flashy Casinos of Mohegan Sun and Foxwoods.

In this region you will find Lantern Hill with its unique Quartzite and surreal views of Foxwoods and the forests Mashantucket Pequot reservation.

Enjoy the simple charm of this place and keep it clean and beautiful for future generations to come.

Here is a small video sample of some of the areas.



Getting There 

I-95 and I-395 provide access to the region.


Climbing Season


65 Total Routes


['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',31],['2 Stars',22],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',9],['5.7',4],['5.8',4],['5.9',13],['5.10',9],['5.11',9],['5.12',10],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',4],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Southeast:
Kyles Corner   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, TR, 50'   Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
Clark Bar Crack   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
Super Slab   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, TR, 70'   Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
TRad Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 40'   Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
P&H   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
Black Beard   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'   Lantern Hill
Porcelain Arete   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X     TR, 1 pitch, 45'   Lantern Hill
Sirius   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
Just Say Yes   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 50'   9 Wall (Feather Ledges)
Jungle Face   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'   Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
Marmalade   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
Noriega - AKA - Bolt or Jolt   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
The Bloody Beetroots   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport   Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
Forearm Frenzy   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 90'   Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
Hollow Head Crew/Forearm Direct   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, Sport, 55'   Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
Captain Moonlite   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
Psycho Jap   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 50'   Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
Shape Shifter   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 55'   Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
Wallow In The Hollow    5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, 40'   Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
The Cold Vein    5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport   Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
Browse More Classics in Southeast

Featured Route For Southeast
Blue to white/purple

Modern Collective 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  CT : Southeast : Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
A powerful and pumpy route. This climb maybe much harder for shorter climbers. This route requires a lot of core and shoulder strength and then the endurance to hold on. Start up the crimpy Hollow Head Crew start past three bolts, traverse left across forearm to the first bolt of Zeitgeist, make the big move up to the pinch and match. Then make a technical and big move left into Shape Shifter connecting with that routes 5th bolt and finish on that route out the roof.Video:youtu.be/AAxX...[more]   Browse More Classics in CT

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