Welcome to Connecticut's Riviera. The Southeastern region is home to Connecticut's oldest towns that lie along the scenic center shore fronts of Long Island Sound and the Connecticut River.
Like its French and Italian cousins, east of the city of New Haven, the shoreline changes and turns to a landscape of small towns, villages, and beautiful inland farms. Some of the towns are plain every day Americana, but many are beautiful, graceful, historic and delightful like Killingworth, Madison, Guilford, Stonington, and Mystic.
What makes this place unique are the waters of Long Island Sound and the Connecticut River, their benign moderating influence on the climate makes the Connecticut shoreline a good place for vineyards and wineries and for sunny snow free winter days of crisp bouldering or climbing on some of America's best metaphoric gneiss.
Hammonasset Beach State Park in Madison has a fine long sand beach on Long Island Sound that is a favorite retreat on a rest day or for a simple afternoon of shoreline bouldering.
Some of the best areas include Westwoods, Chatfield, the Nehantic State Forest, and the Groton/Mystic areas. Although the cliffs and boulders tend to be small, you will find some of Connecticut's best climbs and boulder problems in this region. All styles exist here from physical 5.13 sport routes on 1/2" glue-ins, to mixed routes, traditionally protected splitter cracks of all grades, to radically overhanging boulder roof problems. The attitude is distinctly that of a progressive New England seaport town: cultured, traveled, global, and Yankee.
Groton is famous for it war submarine industry and ships that have sailed and protected every ocean in the world. Mystic was a famous seaport in colonial and early American times because of its international ship building industry, and it is now famous for the Mystic Seaport museum. There are many boulders in this region that are remains of the last ice age 18,000 years ago in the surrounding forests.
A few miles to the north on the tribal reservations of the Mohegan and Mashantucket Pequot peoples are the massive flashy Casinos of Mohegan Sun and Foxwoods.
In this region you will find Lantern Hill with its unique Quartzite and surreal views of Foxwoods and the forests Mashantucket Pequot reservation.
Enjoy the simple charm of this place and keep it clean and beautiful for future generations to come.
Here is a small video sample of some of the areas.
Follow the first half of the Z crack placing gear along the way. Then follow the left part of the crack where it "y's" to the left. From here cut left into the obvious red streak making technical and big and tension moves on underclings and crimps clipping two bolts. Bring a #3(orange) metolius for after the crux. All gear placements are solid. This is a really fun the route, albeit it is somewhat strange and technical. It even has an easy dyno move when exiting the crux into the Forearm...[more]Browse More Classics in CT