Southeast Slopes to East Ridge, Urus Este 5420mts.  Easy Snow

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Type:  Snow, Alpine, 3100 feet, Grade III FA:  July 18th, 1957 V. Day, F. Henostroza, A.Jamanca, T. McCormick, and A. Morales Season:  May -August Submitted By:  TYeary on Mar 6, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Urus Este, 5420 meters, from the southeast.

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Description 

Urus Este, 5420 meters
Southeast slopes to East Ridge
PD- Elevation gain, 1040 meters
Time 5 hours approx. from base camp

From the footbridge crossing the stream, follow the trail toward the Ishinca Refugio. Just as you approach the hut, to the left you will see a sign, Urus Este. This marks the beginning of the trail leading up through bushes and gullies to the moraine coming down from Urus Este.
Follow the moraine crest, more or less upward. Near the top, the moraine curves to the right and levels off. After about 300 feet, follow cairns on slabs out left, up to the toe of the glacier.
Climb 45* snow along the left side of a rock buttress for about 300 feet. At this point you will cross over the buttress on slabs to the snow slopes on the Southeast side of the peak. Climb this snow field for about 600 feet toward a small rock buttress. Angle up and left passing under the rock buttress. Climb the final 45* slopes of the East Ridge to the summit. In dryer years there will be much exposed rock here (a bit loose!) and easy scrambling takes you to the top.

Ref. Classic Climbs of the Cordillera Blanca
Brad Johnson, 2003

Protection 

Ice axe, Rope, crampons, couple of pickets.

Photos of Southeast Slopes to East Ridge, Urus Este 5420mts. Slideshow

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Southeast Slopes and East Ridge, Urus Este	Southeast Slopes and East Ridge.	BETA PHOTO: Lower slopes
Upper Southeast Slopes to the East Ridge	Urus Este summit with Ishinca, Ranrapalca, Ocshapa...	Upper slopes of Urus Este