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South/East side
Petzl Partner Compact Pulley

$42.95 20% off

$34.36

at Backcountry

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Black Diamond Single Portaledge

$649.95 25% off

$487.46

at Backcountry

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Epic 35 Pack

$159.95 25% off

$119.96

at CampSaver

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Black Diamond Viper Ice Tool

$239.95 25% off

$179.96

at Backcountry

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S-220 LT Harness

$98.95 40% off

$59.37

at CampSaver

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The North Face Simple Bivy

$149.99 30% off

$104.99

at AlsSports

25    more...
CAMP USA Mijo Chalk Pot

$49.95 29% off

$34.97

at DeptOfGoods

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La Sportiva Jeckyl VS Climbing Shoe

$119.95 20% off

$95.96

at Backcountry

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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.8 Crack 
Bosker Boozeroo 
Box Overhang Left 
Box Overhang Right 
Boy What Assholes (You Guys Turned Out to Be) 
Boy What Nice Fellows 
Captain Smarmbag 
Cholla Crack 
Cholla Wall 
Dave's Face 
Donde Estan Mis Pantalones 
Double Vision / Ream Dream 
Face Off 
Headwall Crack Left 
Headwall Crack Right 
Holy Crack 
Holy Wall 
Len's Roof 
M.C. Epic 
Narcissistic Dream 
Nice Guys Finish Last 
No Exit 
On Beyond Zebra 
Overture 
Paul's Boutique 
Polly's Crack 
RDD Crack 
Route 21 
Sensuous S 
Squeeze Chimney 
Thief in Time 
Thorazine Dream 
Unknown 
Way Beyond Zebra 
Wildcat 

South/East side 


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Elevation: 6,400'
Page Views: 15,337. Good page?   
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Apr 3, 2007

Make this area a Favorite
What's New
  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event 


BETA PHOTO: The South/East side of The Overlook. (I couldn't f...

Description 

Sunny and warm in the morning through early afternoon. Many great bolted face routes and enjoyable gear-protected crack routes to bolted anchors. Climbing here on winter mornings is very pleasant.

Top ropes can be set up from the top on almost all the routes on this wall.

The climbs are numbered from left to right, in the order you'll pass them on the approach, and coincide with the Beta Photo.


Getting There 

Follow directions for the main area, The Overlook.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South/East side:
Headwall Crack Left   5.8     Trad, TR, 55 feet   
Polly's Crack   5.8+     Trad, TR, 60 feet   
Box Overhang Left   5.9-     Trad, TR, 55 feet   
M.C. Epic   5.9     Trad, TR, 60 feet   
Headwall Crack Right   5.9     Trad, TR, 50 feet   
Cholla Crack   5.9     Trad, TR, 50 feet   
Holy Wall   5.10a     Sport, TR, 55 feet   
Cholla Wall   5.10a/b PG13     Trad, TR, 55 feet   
Boy What Assholes (You Guys Turned Out to Be)   5.10b     Sport, 55 feet   
Dave's Face   5.10c     Sport, TR, 60 feet   
Bosker Boozeroo   5.11a     Sport, 60 feet   
Way Beyond Zebra   5.11b     Sport, TR, 65 feet   
Len's Roof   5.11b     Trad, TR, 55 feet   
Paul's Boutique   5.11b     Sport, 55 feet   
Double Vision / Ream Dream   5.11c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 55 feet   
Thorazine Dream   5.11d     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 55 feet   
Face Off   5.12a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Browse More Classics in South/East side

Featured Route For South/East side
Jammin' and stemmin' gets it done.

Polly's Crack 5.8+  NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : South/East side
A sweet dihedral/open book crack route. Nice fingers and hands with enjoyable stemming all the way. Start up less than desirable rock and pull a tough bulge/roof to get established in the corner. Stem and jam your way up. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM


Photos of South/East side Slideshow Add Photo
Ken Cohegan Overlook 1983

Ken Cohegan Overlook 1983

Overlook

Overlook

A large tarantula that nearly fell on my wife's head as she was scrambling down from the "Holy Wall" platform (taken on 09/06/2012).  You can imagine the bloodcurdling scream that ensued!

A large tarantula that nearly fell on my wife's he...


Comments on South/East side Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Dec 13, 2008

Thanks to the climber that donated "fixed" carabiners on Double Vision / Ream Dream, Way Beyond Zebra, and Face Off recently. Let's hope some naive climber doesn't see them and think he scored some bootie (like the last time this occurred on Way Beyond Zebra.)

By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Jan 11, 2009

Unfortunately it has happened again! Leaver biners gone from Face Off, Way Beyond Zebra, Thorazine Dream, Ream Dream, and possibly more. I found six carabiners at the base of Way Beyond Zebra, two of which I am positive are the ones I put on Thorazine Dream. The other four I believe are the pairs from Face Off and Way Beyond Zebra. I have no idea where the ones are for Ream Dream. Anyways I put mine back on Thorazine Dream and two back on Face Off. I couldn't reach the anchors for Way Beyond Zebra from the top, but next time I climb it I will put those final two back. Hopefully this will happen some time this week. I guess it is lucky that these people that are stealing the biners are sometimes forgetful and left some of their 'booty' at the bottom! Or else they left them (as litter) on purpose?!?

Edit: I put the carabiners back on Way Beyond Zebra today.

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 11, 2009

Pretty damn weird, Daniel. I've been meaning to use bailing wire to put fix the biners to the chains. It won't stop the determined folks but at least it'll show the biners are supposed to be there and not "booty".

By Owen Darrow
From: Garmisch,
Feb 23, 2011

I like Jason's idea about putting wire around the biners to make sure people know they're suppose to be there but maybe a zip tie will work better because it wont scrape and wear down the metal on the biner like wire will.

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Feb 25, 2011

Hey Owen, I've applied both types and find the zip ties degrade and crack pretty quickly. The bailing wire doesn't negatively impact the chains or biners in any fashion and lasts longer. Thankfully, I believe folks have finally understood that the biners are "fixed" and they've stopped disappearing. It just took a little while for that mindset to set in. Also, spray painting the biners an ugly rust color helped in that the biners were far less appealing that way. And they are more cammoed so they blend in with the rock better--less visually annoying.

By Orlando
Feb 25, 2011

Try stainless steel zip ties, available at most hardware stores. They're kinda expensive (maybe a buck each?) but work well and should last the life of the carabiner. Cheers.

By Matt Balkey
Jan 9, 2012

I found some quickdraws on the anchors for Box Overhang Right this past Saturday. If these belong to you, let me know.