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DescriptionSunny and warm in the morning through early afternoon. Many great bolted face routes and enjoyable gear-protected crack routes to bolted anchors. Climbing here on winter mornings is very pleasant. Getting ThereFollow directions for the main area, The Overlook. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South/East side:
Headwall Crack Left 5.8 Trad, TR, 55 feet
Polly's Crack 5.8+ Trad, TR, 60 feet
Box Overhang Left 5.9- Trad, TR, 55 feet
Headwall Crack Right 5.9 Trad, TR, 50 feet
M.C. Epic 5.9 Trad, TR, 60 feet
Cholla Crack 5.9 Trad, TR, 50 feet
Holy Wall 5.10a Sport, TR, 55 feet
Cholla Wall 5.10a/b PG13 Trad, TR, 55 feet
Boy What Assholes (You Guys Turned Out to Be) 5.10b Sport, 55 feet
Dave's Face 5.10c Sport, TR, 60 feet
Boy What Nice Fellows 5.11a PG13 Trad, 55 feet
Bosker Boozeroo 5.11a Sport, 60 feet
Way Beyond Zebra 5.11b Sport, TR, 65 feet
Paul's Boutique 5.11b Sport, 55 feet
Len's Roof 5.11b Trad, TR, 55 feet
Nice Guys Finish Last 5.11b/c Sport, 63 feet
Double Vision / Ream Dream 5.11c Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 55 feet
Thorazine Dream 5.11d Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 55 feet
Face Off 5.12a Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Featured Route For South/East side
Double Vision / Ream Dream 5.11c NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : South/East side
Straight up the steep, pocketed face right of No Exit and left of Cholla Wall. Tricky lower section to high first bolt and then it doesn't let up. Route doesn't see a lot of traffic so the holds aren't as obvious as they are on neighboring climbs and sometimes are a bit dirty. Staying on the face is 5.11c. Reportedly, using the arete on the right makes it 5.10d-ish although right at the finish there's an obvious hold on the arete that I consider on route for 5.11c. ...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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