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 ADVANCED
Ego Boost
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Diagonal T 
Southeast Ridge T 

Southeast Ridge 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Gary Hicks, Jay Stagnone, 26 March 1974
Page Views: 506
Submitted By: Bill Lawry on Jan 19, 2008

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Description 

See roughly marked route on beta photo for Ego Boost. This route is described in Mike Hill's guide. Also, see below Location.

  • P1: A short pitch leading over blocks up the SE ridge. Probably more than one way to go. Watch for one or two loose suitcase-sized blocks. We ended the pitch at a cozy horizontal platform somewhat sunk between surrounding rock and perhaps slightly on the east side of the SE ridge. Perhaps this pitch could be combined with P2?
  • P2: Climb ~20 feet back up to the ridge top and drop a little down to the left before traversing up and left to the south face "amphitheatre" and significant exposure (not just exposure to the tram). Finish the traverse at a ledge with a microwave-sized boulder and belay.
  • P3, 5.7+, ~100 feet (shared with Diagonal route); mantle up; then a one or two-move lie-back at the crux (or somewhat painful jam betwixt crystals); then, easy finger traverse for several feet to the right on slab; then up past a chock-stone; just above the chockstone, trend left and up, passing to the left of a healthy tree; the belay behind the tree includes a single piton plus gear; probably a good idea to extend the belay to the cliff edge to improve communications as the running tram is noisy for long periods of time.

Finish with a ~150 foot scramble to summit, first heading to the right from the belay; 3rd and 5.low the way we did it. Other options exist.

Protection 

Standard rack.

Location 

After scrambling to the middle of the base of Ego Boost, continue scrambling to climber's right following the base until one must either tackle a sort of brushy right facing dihedral or rock climb the large rock shoulder which extends ~SE away from the plane of the south face. At this point, climb up the rock shoulder while trending right - exposed and unprotected fourth class. The climbing eases after about 30 or 40 feet and ends after about 100 feet at the top of the shoulder. This should be at the base of the southeast ridge. We set up a belay where the shoulder dropped steeply off to the east.


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