|Southeast Mox Peak (2,594m)
The hardest of the Mox Peaks was first climbed along the west ridge by Fred Beckey and his brother Helmy, June 21, 1941. Beckey called this: "...the most difficult climb we had ever done." On the dangerous descent Fred stepped on a piano sized block that cut loose and nearly took him with it. Of that he wrote: "In years of mountaineering this was perhaps my narrowest escape." (Fred Beckey, Challenge of the North Cascades, 1969)
Before 1990, the size of this wall was hard to measure because the upper part of the wall was on a 1:62,500 scale map and the lower part on a 1:24,000. Afterward, a better map was published by Trails Illustrated and it shows the whole of Southeast Mox Peak and an elevation gain of 2,900 feet.
I once found an article in an old Mountaineers bulletin that listed the biggest rock walls in the cascades Mox Peak as third (behind Index and Baring). Twenty-five pitches, just to the top of the Tumelo, the sub-peak. Half Dome is twenty four.
In the lower forty-eight, the last time an alpine wall of this size and steepness had it's first ascent was in 1967: The Angel Wings, in the Sierras. Other American alpine walls of similar size were done many years ago too; Keeler Needle (1960), Mt Hooker (1965), Raid Peak (196?), Index (1951), The Diamond (1960), and Grand Teton's North Face (1953).
To reach the monster east face, first hire the Ross Lake Resort's shuttle boat to the Little Beaver Trail Head. Leave the good trail at Perry Creek and suffer through the devils club. There is a topo map of Perry Creek in the photos.
1 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Southeast Mox Peak (2,594m)
The Devils Club 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c
: Northwest Region
: ... : Southeast Mox Peak (2,594m)
INTRODUCTIONSummer of 2005, the wall was climbed, but the summit was not quite reached. Two articles were published about Devils Club; Alpinist #15, and the 2007 AAC Journal. Both articles understated the historical significance of Mox East Face. September of 2008, Rolf Larson and Eric Wehrly took the route all the way across unclimbed Lemolo Peak to the main summit. Descent was via the south side glacier, back to Perry Creek.ROUTE DESCRIPTIONS Mike Layton's...[more] Browse More Classics in WA
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BETA PHOTO: Perry Creek Approach
Red marks my guess for a cro...