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Southeast Mox Peak Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Southeast Mox Peak

L › R R › L A › Z

	Beckey Route (West Ridge) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
	Devils Club, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X

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Elevation:	7,686 ft
GPS:	48.9477, -121.2545 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	4,883 total · 26/month
Shared By:	Ken Trout on Feb 24, 2009 · Updates
Admins:	Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July Details

Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.

Hardest Mountain of the Lower 48?

The highest of the Mox Peaks was first climbed along the west ridge by Fred Beckey and his brother Helmy, June 21, 1941. Beckey called this: "...the most difficult climb we had ever done." On the dangerous descent Fred stepped on a piano sized block that cut loose and nearly took him with it. Of that he wrote: "In years of mountaineering this was perhaps my narrowest escape." (Fred Beckey, Challenge of the North Cascades, 1969)

An old Mountaineers bulletin once ranked the biggest rock walls in the cascades. Mox Peak was listed as third (behind Index and Baring). Twenty-five pitches, just to the top of Tumelo, the sub-peak. Half Dome is twenty four.

In the lower forty-eight, the last time an alpine wall of this size and steepness had it's first ascent was in 1967: The Angel Wings, in the Sierras. Other American alpine walls of similar size were done many years ago too; Keeler Needle (1960), Mt Hooker (1965), Raid Peak (196?), Index (1951), The Diamond (1960), and Grand Teton's North Face (1953).