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Southeast Mox Peak (2,594m)
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Devils Club, The T 

Southeast Mox Peak (2,594m) Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,509'
Location: 48.9477, -121.2545 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,125
Administrators: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Feb 24, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Perry Creek Approach Red marks my guess for a cro...

Hardest Mountain of the Lower 48? 

The highest of the Mox Peaks was first climbed along the west ridge by Fred Beckey and his brother Helmy, June 21, 1941. Beckey called this: "...the most difficult climb we had ever done." On the dangerous descent Fred stepped on a piano sized block that cut loose and nearly took him with it. Of that he wrote: "In years of mountaineering this was perhaps my narrowest escape." (Fred Beckey, Challenge of the North Cascades, 1969)
Rock Climbing Photo: called The Twin Spires by Fred and Helmy Beckey.  ...
called The Twin Spires by Fred and Helmy Beckey. Now called Mox Peaks.

photo by Robert Gunning 1964

An old Mountaineers bulletin once ranked the biggest rock walls in the cascades. Mox Peak was listed as third (behind Index and Baring). Twenty-five pitches, just to the top of Tumelo, the sub-peak. Half Dome is twenty four.

In the lower forty-eight, the last time an alpine wall of this size and steepness had it's first ascent was in 1967: The Angel Wings, in the Sierras. Other American alpine walls of similar size were done many years ago too; Keeler Needle (1960), Mt Hooker (1965), Raid Peak (196?), Index (1951), The Diamond (1960), and Grand Teton's North Face (1953).

Approach 

Please see the map on the Devil's Club page.

Climbing Season



Weather station 18.3 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Southeast Mox Peak (2,594m)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Southeast Mox Peak (2,594m):
The Devils Club   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X     Trad, Alpine, 25 pitches, 2000'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Southeast Mox Peak (2,594m)

Featured Route For Southeast Mox Peak (2,594m)
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike high on the route

The Devils Club 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c WA : Northwest Region : ... : Southeast Mox Peak (2,594m)
Conquistadors of the Useless photo by Mountain Project contributor MisterE Summer of 2005, the wall was climbed and then rappelled. Two articles were published about the Devil's Club route; Alpinist #15, and the 2007 AAC Journal. The Devil's Club (red) Mike Layton on the first ascent. photo by MisterE 2005 ROUTE DESCRIPTIONS Eric Wherly's report of the 2008 second route, with variation, on the east face. Prospecting for more unclimbed routes in the North Cascades is a ...[more]   Browse More Classics in WA

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