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Barber Peak
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Southeast Gully T 

Southeast Gully 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 800', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mark Dalen, David Nordstrom - June 5, 1981
New Route: Yes
Season: spring or fall
Page Views: 565
Submitted By: docsavage on Dec 22, 2011

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Barbers summit block detail

Climbing on the Navajo Nation is ILLEGAL. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Begin on the east side with a scramble of several hundred feet up the prominent gully, mostly 3rd class with a move or two of 5th. The second may appreciate a rope although the leader will find little protection. The gully ends atop the broad shoulder directly south of the summit block. Here some old slings may be seen below a large overhang, remnants of some unknown earlier attempt. Successful? You decide. The free route begins by climbing the rib to the left up a broken trough to a ledge from whose right end several (crux) moves head back left to a clean groove that leads to a straight-in hand-and-fist crack: your reward for getting this far. Above this crack find a 1/4" x 1-1/2" rawl bolt that is used for rappel off a doubled 60m rope. The summit is capped by a large boulder that is easily surmountable.

Location 

Rap off the bolt just below the summit back down to the shoulder. Slings around boulders provide anchors for the rappel back down the main gully.

Protection 

Standard rack.


Photos of Southeast Gully Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Southeast Gully route
BETA PHOTO: Southeast Gully route
Rock Climbing Photo: Scott Dalen on an early reconnaissance climb, rapp...
Scott Dalen on an early reconnaissance climb, rapp...
Rock Climbing Photo: Barber Peak from the approach road off US 491 sout...
Barber Peak from the approach road off US 491 sout...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chrusher on the 2nd pitch.
Chrusher on the 2nd pitch.

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