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 ADVANCED
Southeast Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alcazar S 
As You Like It S 
Camelot T 
Chapalot S 
Cyberwanker S 
Finishing School S 
Forced Stress S 
Fort Stress S 
Gargoyle S 
No Name S 
No name one S 
Pitched Battle T,S 
Quartz Jester S 
Rupley Route, The T 
Sir Clipalot S 
Sneak Attack S 
Steel Crazy S 
Tres Frijoles S 
Yo Yo Pinnacle T 

Southeast Face  


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Location: 32.43213, -110.79756 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,911
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Hendrixson on Jul 21, 2014
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Closed to climbing, March 15-June 30 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The southeast face of the Fortress boasts some of the best and longest multi-pitch routes on the mountain. The style of these routes is both traditional and sport. There are also a number of single pitch lines that are worth exploring. The not-to-be-missed, multi-pitch sport routes are Steel Crazy, Fort Stress, and Sir Clipalot. This face is sunny until mid or late afternoon.

Advice for the multi-pitch routes:
  • Walk off rather than rappel. Be aware that this requires climbing down and up a 15ft gully.
  • Leave your pack at toe of crag as this is where the walk off ends.
  • Start early during monsoon season as afternoon rains and lightning can occur suddenly.

Getting There 

Approach the The Fortress using the directions up one level. Immediately prior to reaching the formation pick up a sometimes overgrown trail on the left. The trail winds through small bushes while losing elevation before hugging the cliff. The approach takes approximately 10 minutes from the toe of the cliff or about 30 minutes from the parking lot.

Route finding hints:

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.4 miles from here

19 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',4],['5.10',7],['5.11',7],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Southeast Face:
Steel Crazy   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 4 pitches, 450'   
The Rupley Route   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 450'   
Fort Stress   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 4 pitches, 400'   
Tres Frijoles   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 3 pitches, 380'   
Gargoyle   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 160'   
As You Like It   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Sport, 3 pitches, 475'   
Quartz Jester   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Sir Clipalot   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 3 pitches, 240'   
Browse More Classics in Southeast Face

Featured Route For Southeast Face
Clifford Rylands and John Hinrichsen finishing pitch 2. <br /> <br />Photo by Peter Piek.

Sir Clipalot 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c  AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Southeast Face
Three pitches; three headwalls; three stars in the guidebook.Pitch 1 (5.10c): Balance up two bolts of slab to easier climbing. The third bolt is 30ft up at the headwall. Decipher getting vertical and ascend to the anchors of the first pitch.Pitch 2 (5.10a): A challenging finger lock leads to milder, left trending terrain. Ascend a rounded arete while enjoying the scenery.Pitch 3 (5.11b): Walk for twenty feet while heading for a dead vertical orange wall on the right. The ...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Photos of Southeast Face Slideshow Add Photo
Unknown climbers (some gal and guy on what I believe is Alcazar 5.11c) not long before a monsoon walloped us all off the crag. <br /> <br />July 2007
Unknown climbers (some gal and guy on what I belie...
Greg leading the way on the first pitch of Sir Clipalot.
Greg leading the way on the first pitch of Sir Cli...
Desperate climbing aside, Greg getting another impressive onsight on Cyberwanker.
Desperate climbing aside, Greg getting another imp...

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