Greg high on Quartz Jester
The southeast face of the Fortress boasts some of the best and longest multi-pitch routes on the mountain. The style of these routes is both traditional and sport. There are also a number of single pitch lines that are worth exploring. The not-to-be-missed, multi-pitch sport routes are Steel Crazy
, Fort Stress
, and Sir Clipalot
. This face is sunny until mid or late afternoon.
Advice for the multi-pitch routes:
- Walk off rather than rappel. Be aware that this requires climbing down and up a 15ft gully.
- Leave your pack at toe of crag as this is where the walk off ends.
- Start early during monsoon season as afternoon rains and lightning can occur suddenly.
Approach the The Fortress
using the directions up one level. Immediately prior to reaching the formation pick up a sometimes overgrown trail on the left. The trail winds through small bushes while losing elevation before hugging the cliff. The approach takes approximately 10 minutes from the toe of the cliff or about 30 minutes from the parking lot.
Route finding hints:
Weather station 4.4 miles from here
19 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Southeast Face
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Southeast Face:
Steel Crazy 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, 4 pitches, 450'
Fort Stress 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, 4 pitches, 400'
Gargoyle 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 2 pitches, 160'
Sir Clipalot 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 3 pitches, 240'
Featured Route For Southeast Face
Sir Clipalot 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c AZ
: Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin...
: ... : Southeast Face
Three pitches; three headwalls; three stars in the guidebook.Pitch 1 (5.10c): Balance up two bolts of slab to easier climbing. The third bolt is 30ft up at the headwall. Decipher getting vertical and ascend to the anchors of the first pitch.Pitch 2 (5.10a): A challenging finger lock leads to milder, left trending terrain. Ascend a rounded arete while enjoying the scenery.Pitch 3 (5.11b): Walk for twenty feet while heading for a dead vertical orange wall on the right. The ...[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
Local Information for Southeast Face
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