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> Hwy 20 & N Casc…
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> Sharkfin Tower
Southeast Face
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.8 from 8
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Routes in Sharkfin Tower
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Southeast Face T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Southeast Ridge T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Jim Nelson, Jim Martin, Kit Lewis, Bill Liddell, Dave Bale - 1990 |
| Page Views: | 3,860 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Jeff Hebert on Sep 15, 2013 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July
Details
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.
Description
The Southeast Face of Sharkfin Tower has solid granite, fun moves, and an unbeatable position.
P1: Step onto a detached block, then work up a widening seam, starting with fingers, then ring-locks. Protection is good once the crack gets wide enough for fingers. The seam zig-zags a bit, just left of the arete. Follow it to the two-bolt anchor in a notch on the ridge.
P2: From the bolted belay, traverse left past two bolts and then choose your own adventure on the face. Gear is somewhat sparse and often best in thin cracks or horizontal seams. The upper section has more lichen and will be better if it cleans up more.
To descend, follow the beta for the Southeast Ridge.
P1: Step onto a detached block, then work up a widening seam, starting with fingers, then ring-locks. Protection is good once the crack gets wide enough for fingers. The seam zig-zags a bit, just left of the arete. Follow it to the two-bolt anchor in a notch on the ridge.
P2: From the bolted belay, traverse left past two bolts and then choose your own adventure on the face. Gear is somewhat sparse and often best in thin cracks or horizontal seams. The upper section has more lichen and will be better if it cleans up more.
To descend, follow the beta for the Southeast Ridge.
Location
On the clean Southeast Face of Sharkfin Tower, visible from the notch at the base of the Southeast Ridge. Climb the first two pitches of the ridge and find a fixed anchor to rap from. Make two 75' raps, keeping in mind the notes from the section above on protection with respect to anchors.
Protection
Single/light rack with gear to 2" and some runners.
A fixed anchor exists at the top of the route. Rap from this or build your own anchor to rap from since you'll be back. There is a two-bolt belay at the top of P1, but there are no chains or rap rings, so you'll leave gear here to rap down to the base of the climb. There is no anchor at the base of P1 (a bolt with no hanger exists), so build your own anchor for the belayer here.
A fixed anchor exists at the top of the route. Rap from this or build your own anchor to rap from since you'll be back. There is a two-bolt belay at the top of P1, but there are no chains or rap rings, so you'll leave gear here to rap down to the base of the climb. There is no anchor at the base of P1 (a bolt with no hanger exists), so build your own anchor for the belayer here.
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