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This is the most obvious route on the Southeast face of Flattop. It's pretty easy to spot from Emerald Lake, so just walk to the west side and then start up the snow gully.
Look up for the ice from Emerald Lake, and follow the obvious snow gully. Belay from the left side as ice can fall down below the flow. Continue up the obvious snow gully after the short rock pitch.
You'll need at least 3 ice screws to protect the WI2 section and want some pro for the short rock pitch. There is no fixed gear, it is easily protected and not much is needed.
Approaching the base of the route.
The WI2+ low on the route. About 50' of WI2 leads ...
Tom encrusted in gnar.
|Comments on Southeast Face
|By Andy Hansen|
From: Longmont, Colorado
Feb 15, 2013
rating: Easy 5th 1+ 3 I M 1c
My friend Tom and I climbed this route today in less than ideal conditions. Luckily this route is worth the suffering. Realistically most of the route can be simul-climbed, and there are two or so pitches that you might want to rope up for. The first pitch, the WI2 section, should be roped up for but can easily be skirted on the left, but why would you do that? The second roped pitch is a M1 pitch about 200' above and left of the ice pitch at the top of a small couloir. We opted to go left whereas the OP went right - this led them directly to the Emerald Lake overlook. This line looks more direct. We took the left option (see beta photo), and this enabled us to climb an extra 300' more feet. All in all, this would be a good route in early Spring conditions although Winter conditions are super rad.