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This is a climb in two parts. The lower arete has very little gear ... but good gear where you step up around the overlap, and huge holds everywhere else. Once on the ledge at mid-height, walk over to the summit block. There is decent gear again for the final few moves, where you are feeling most exposed.
Scramble down to the foot of Cleo's Needle, on the side facing the Lake. Step up out of the gully onto one of two or three different starting ledges.
Gear to 2 inches.
Dunbar on the Southeast Arete
|Comments on Southeast Arete
|By Stranger Than Iowa|
Jul 1, 2012
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c PG13
Some blind tricam/microcam placements between base and belay ledge. Rope drag is an issue if doing the entire needle in one pitch. Recommend starting at base.