|419 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 2 pitches, 360', Grade II|
|FA: ||Tony Bubb, Chris Parks, 3/8/2003|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Mar 8, 2003|
P1: (5.4, long) Climb the first pitch of The East Face Left of Der Zerkle, arriving in a single pitch at the base of the "roof that runs the length of the rock." From there, near it's left end you will see a cave-like hole through the roof that is choked with ice in the winter. Still, below this is the best belay for the second pitch.
P2: (5.8+, S, 60M) From the belay, traverse left under the roof band, toward the South Arete of the East Face. Overhead the roof shrinks in size. It is probably a great idea to place gear overhead below it where available and use long slings on it. In the unfortunate event of a lead fall from the crux, this might take some of the sting out of it. Where the roof band becomes a mere bulge, pull up and over on well-spaced crimps and slopes (sorry, no jugs) and up onto a near vertical face above- use the feet on clean slopers to stand up and stretch left to some juggy shallow pockets. (6'0" height would have been nice, but I had to stretch) There is still no gear above the traverse, and a 15' ledge fall to where your gear is would be possible. Continue up a few easier moves and hunt and peck for gear- continuing up the South East Arete for South-most Summit of the rock, ~ 60 Meters.
To Descend, climb down and North to a cleft between two summits, then Scamble down into a chimeny for 20-30 feet to a ledge on the West side fo this rock, above the sport climbs there and below "Happy Ending". Walk North on this ledge to the North end of the West side, then off to the West. You are on the ground. The trail back to the base wraps around the rock to the South.
A standard Flatirons rack, including a set of Lowe Tricams, a set of nuts, and cams from .5" to 3". The crux is protected from a death fall, but a nasty ledge fall would be the result of any error.
|Comments on Southeast Arete