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Cima Bois
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Southeast Arete Via Alvera-Menardi T 

Southeast Arete Via Alvera-Menardi 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 12 pitches, 1000'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: S. Alvera and L. Menardi 13 July 1947
Season: Summer/Early Fall
Page Views: 790
Submitted By: Rodger Raubach on Nov 22, 2011

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Picture of the Alvera route on Cima Bois (Col Dei ...

Description 

The route is fairly obvious and aims towards a prominent chimney several pitches up the face. Entering the chimney is the first crux of the route and is UIAA Grade V+, or Yosemite Decimal System 5.7/5.8. As one ascends the ever narrowing face, the options are decreasing, until the crest of the arete is reached. Stay left towards the top of the route. The rock is decently solid, and opportunities for protection are also good. The descent is a walk off and ramble downhill from the col to parking area.


Location 

The route begins at the far right of the triangular face and traverses an easy ledge towards the center of the formation


Protection 

Mostly fixed protection; bring a light rack and extra runners.



Photos of Southeast Arete Via Alvera-Menardi Slideshow Add Photo
Merrill Bitter leads the crux chimney pitch of the Alvera Arete.
Merrill Bitter leads the crux chimney pitch of the...
Comments on Southeast Arete Via Alvera-Menardi Add Comment
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By Rodger Raubach
Nov 22, 2011

The Antonio Berti guide published by Club Alpino Italiano gives the route a Grade V rating; this translates to ~5.6-5.7. My experience on the route leans towards a higher rating. This is nice climb, and takes 3-4 hours to complete the route. The descent is fairly easy. This is a distinct step up in difficulty from many of the easier climbs in the Cinque Torre, such as the Torre Barancio North Face.

By Rodger Raubach
Dec 7, 2011

After doing a little more research, I found that this climb (misnamed) is listed in the Classic Dolomite Climbs guidebook by Anette Koehler and Norbert Memmel as Route # 41. Their grade confirms the harder grade of V+, which converts to YDS grade of 5.7/5.8. The concensus here is 5.7+ which seems to be right on the mark.

By Dustin B
From: Steamboat
Jul 11, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

To find the start of this route look for a threaded cord about 35 feet above ground, above a ledgy ramp leaning to the left.

Also, it's best not to leave packs at the start of the route, it adds quite a bit of hiking at the end of the day.

Great route, a fun ramble with great views and comfortable belays.

By Martin Bennett
From: Manchester, UK
Nov 4, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

At the top, instead of continuing all the way left up the left leaning gully we climbed a wide crack (face climbing on the edges) direct to the top. Improcves the line without altering the grade. Undoubtedly often climbed though no mention in our guide book.